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Routes in The Castle

Knight In Shining Armor, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warrior Eagle T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro and others 1981
Page Views: 992 total, 6/month
Shared By: AJ on Apr 7, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

A straight-in finger crack with a small roof at the start. It gradually widens to perfect hands. About 40' long.

Protection

to 2"

Photos

AJ
 
AJ  
 
When I posted this in 2003 it had been several years since I did the climb, and apparently my memory was pretty fuzzy. Revisited it this weekend – great climb and Murf and Randy’s beta is spot on... much better than mine! Feb 16, 2016
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Thin fingers and fingers to mid-height and then gradually opens up to thin hands at the widest. Seemed a lot longer on the sharp end. 3 of 5 stars.

Bring triples on Green Aliens/Blue TCUs; Yellow Aliens/TCUs; and Red Alien/Orange TCU/Purple Camalot, (9 cams total) and doubles on 0.75 and 1 Camalots (4 cams). A #3 Camalot protects the traverse under the roof to the crack. Oct 23, 2009
Murf
  5.11b
Murf  
  5.11b
We rapped from slingage on the tree to the left of the routes with a single rope. Jan 23, 2006
Murf
  5.11b
Murf  
  5.11b
Thought this was a fantastic climb, fairly sustained. I felt it was longer than 40', and the only decent handjam I got was on the last move ( but I am notoriously bad on distances and the like ). Oct 25, 2004