Elevation: 4,200 ft
GPS: 34.059, -116.174 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 98,079 total · 687/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Sep 15, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

This area encompasses formations rising from the valley floor found on the right side of the Wonderland trail, past Ellsmere/Gilligan's Islands. Unlike the guide books, this area also includes the Land's End due to its proximity.

Getting There

Hike in about about a mile, just past the large tailing Ellsmere formation.

82 Total Climbs

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Location: The Middle Kingdom Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Middle Kingdom

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 34
Yellow Peril
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 33
Asian Friends
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 30
Cross-Roads Finish
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Weo
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 78
George's Route (aka Binder)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Original Route (aka Jake Off)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 99
Yasmine Bleeth
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 82
Gandy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 58
A Bull with Gas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 132
Dos Chi Chis
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Toby
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 61
Love Gas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Hollywood Rattlesnake
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
Showers With Dad
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 4
The Bazooka
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Yellow Peril Outer Mongolia > W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
 34
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Asian Friends Outer Mongolia > W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
 33
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cross-Roads Finish Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 30
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Weo Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
George's Route (aka Binder) Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 78
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Original Route (aka Jake Off) Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Yasmine Bleeth Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 99
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Gandy Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 82
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
A Bull with Gas Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 58
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dos Chi Chis Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 132
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Toby Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Love Gas Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 61
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hollywood Rattlesnake Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Showers With Dad Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 29
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Bazooka Outer Mongolia > Siberia
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
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