All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North

The Middle Kingdom Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in The Middle Kingdom

3 Little Pigs 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Clean Crack Rock 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

El Dorado 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Jones Rock 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Land's End Area 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Mistaken Rock 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Outer Mongolia 32 / 13 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 46

Pernicious Dome 7 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Skin Graft, The 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Smith Rock 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Techulator, The 18 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,200 ft	1,280 m
GPS:	34.05878, -116.17449 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	127,878 total · 689/month
Shared By:	Adam Stackhouse on Sep 15, 2009
Admins:	Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This area encompasses formations rising from the valley floor found on the right side of the Wonderland trail, past Ellsmere/Gilligan's Islands. Unlike the guide books, this area also includes the Land's End due to its proximity.

Getting There

Hike in about about a mile, just past the large tailing Ellsmere formation.

98 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Middle Kingdom

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c 5 ● Easy Buttress-Left Trad Land's End Area > Easy Buttress
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 45 ● Yellow Peril Trad Outer Mongolia > W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 42 ● Cross-Roads Finish Sport Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 43 ● Asian Friends Trad Outer Mongolia > W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 95 ● George's Route (aka Binder) Sport Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 11 ● Original Route (aka Jake Off) Trad Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 119 ● Yasmine Bleeth Sport Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 95 ● Gandy Sport Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 66 ● A Bull with Gas Sport Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 147 ● Dos Chi Chis Sport 2 pitches Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 27 ● Toby Sport Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 6 ● Clean Crack Trad Clean Crack Rock
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 69 ● Love Gas Sport Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 33 ● Showers With Dad Sport Outer Mongolia > Siberia
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 5 ● The Bazooka Trad Outer Mongolia > Siberia