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Siberia Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Siberia

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
	Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Leon Redbone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Old Hornington T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,234 ft	1,291 m
GPS:	34.06957, -116.16993 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	63,531 total · 256/month
Shared By:	C Miller on Feb 27, 2006
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Siberia is the attractive light and dark brown formation rising just north of the trail to Willow Hole with numerous one and two pitch routes on it's large south face. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chi Chis (5.10a) are the most sought after routes here, but several other good routes are to be found as well. Some shorter routes are also found on the shady north face in the Siberian Corridor. Kublai Corner (5.8), Mongoloid (5.9) and Broken Dreams (5.11b) are the best of those.

The somewhat lengthy hike and minimal amount of information about the area ensures that you'll likely be the only party at this remote and wild-feeling crag. Please stick to established trails and help to maintain the special feel this area has.

Getting There

Park in the large paved lot at Key's Corner and hike north following a well-defined trail. 1.25 miles after leaving the parking area the trail forks - left along the Boy Scout Trail, which leads to Indian Cove, and right to Willow Hole and deeper into the northern Wonderland. Take the right fork and continue hiking for another 0.75 miles and then leave the trail at a point marked by a trail sign. Follow, at times, an ill-defined trail to a point near the base of the formation and then boulder hop to the base. Plan on an hour for the approach.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Siberia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 45 ● Cross-Roads Finish Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 15 ● Weo Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 101 ● George's Route (aka Binder) Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 11 ● Original Route (aka Jake Off) Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 131 ● Yasmine Bleeth Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 101 ● Gandy Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 76 ● A Bull with Gas Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 160 ● Dos Chi Chis Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 29 ● Toby Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 72 ● Love Gas Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 34 ● Showers With Dad Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 5 ● The Bazooka Trad