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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Siberia is the attractive light and dark brown formation rising just north of the trail to Willow Hole with numerous one and two pitch routes on it's large south face. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chi Chis (5.10a) are the most sought after routes here, but several other good routes are to be found as well. Some shorter routes are also found on the shady north face in the Siberian Corridor. Kublai Corner (5.8), Mongoloid (5.9) and Broken Dreams (5.11b) are the best of those.

The somewhat lengthy hike and minimal amount of information about the area ensures that you'll likely be the only party at this remote and wild-feeling crag. Please stick to established trails and help to maintain the special feel this area has.

Getting There

Park in the large paved lot at Key's Corner and hike north following a well-defined trail. 1.25 miles after leaving the parking area the trail forks - left along the Boy Scout Trail, which leads to Indian Cove, and right to Willow Hole and deeper into the northern Wonderland. Take the right fork and continue hiking for another 0.75 miles and then leave the trail at a point marked by a trails sign. Follow, at times, an ill-defined trail to a point near the base of the formation and then boulder hop to the base. Plan on an hour for the approach.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Siberia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Nick Y.  
After taking the right fork, the next turn is no longer marked by a 'small cairn' - it is now a trail marker for "Climber's Trail" for Outer Mongolia.

Read "Hollywood Rattlesnake" Description carefully if coming to this area. Four great climbs right on top of each other. Any chance an admin could make a legit entry for "Showers with Dad"? Apr 1, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Approaching Siberia is a fine adventure, but the most direct route through the boulders from the sign isn't really the best. If you continue west and follow the wash around the high rock formation, right of the sign, there is a much easier route through the boulder field with fewer big drops and less climbing over boulders. I'm not trying to promote more social trails, but the one that is signed is arduous with anything bigger than a light pack. Feb 19, 2013

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