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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Dara
Page Views: 2,126 total, 23/month
Shared By: Pete eye on Mar 10, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fun and short, on the upper left end of the face. Best if done WITHOUT an Irish toothache

Location

JTNP has recently added signage which guides you better to this area. New signs are in accordance to JT West guide.

Protection

Originally, 1st pro a fixed pin. Pin is gone, has been replaced with a bolt. 3 more bolts to two fixed pin anchor.
George Wu
Newport Beach, CA
George Wu   Newport Beach, CA
As of this past weekend (October 29, 2016), 2 quicklinks hang from the anchor pins on an aging piece of webbing. The originally one inch white webbing is yellowed and stiff from weather, and therefore somewhat suspect. Each quick link is then individually backed up to one of the pins; one of 6 mm cord and the other on a Spectra sling. The backups looked to be in better condition, and were the only reason I was willing to trust the anchor to hold a lead fall.

Recommend everyone inspect and be prepared to replace as age and sun take their inevitable toll. I'm no expert on anchors, but perhaps having just the quicklinks directly on the pins would be safer overall? Every leader would then have to complete the anchor with a sling of presumably known quality. Oct 30, 2016
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
This is a good route on clean, solid rock - probably only 5.6. We cut the old mank off the anchor pins and replaced with new webbing. It would be nice if chains were installed, or better yet a bolted anchor somewhere below the pins. Nov 26, 2015
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
A fun route, and well-bolted. From the top of this route you can make an easy but grainy and poorly-protected traverse to the right around a corner to the anchors for Glen's Crack and Jack. From those anchors, you can rap down to the anchors for Old Hornington and The Bazooka. Unlike Irish Toothache, the pro is sparse on these routes. Feb 6, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Missing piton on Irish Toothache has been replaced by a bolt;....3/7/10. Quick draws only now.... Mar 8, 2010
squiddo Marc
Mountain View, CA
squiddo Marc   Mountain View, CA
I climbed Irish Toothache on Siberia last weekend. The first piece of protection noted as a Piton (Knifeblade) came out in my hands. Looks like you can get some gear to the right but until then, please note its not a "sport" route.... Oct 18, 2009