Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Dara
Page Views: 2,429 total · 23/month
Shared By: Pete eye on Mar 10, 2010
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Fun and short, on the upper left end of the face. Best if done WITHOUT an Irish toothache


JTNP has recently added signage which guides you better to this area. New signs are in accordance to JT West guide.


Originally, 1st pro a fixed pin. Pin is gone, has been replaced with a bolt. 3 more bolts to two fixed pin anchor.
Marc Squiddo
Mountain View, CA
Marc Squiddo   Mountain View, CA
I climbed Irish Toothache on Siberia last weekend. The first piece of protection noted as a Piton (Knifeblade) came out in my hands. Looks like you can get some gear to the right but until then, please note its not a "sport" route.... Oct 18, 2009
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Missing piton on Irish Toothache has been replaced by a bolt;....3/7/10. Quick draws only now.... Mar 8, 2010
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
A fun route, and well-bolted. From the top of this route you can make an easy but grainy and poorly-protected traverse to the right around a corner to the anchors for Glen's Crack and Jack. From those anchors, you can rap down to the anchors for Old Hornington and The Bazooka. Unlike Irish Toothache, the pro is sparse on these routes. Feb 6, 2012
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
This is a good route on clean, solid rock - probably only 5.6. We cut the old mank off the anchor pins and replaced with new webbing. It would be nice if chains were installed, or better yet a bolted anchor somewhere below the pins. Nov 26, 2015
George Wu
Newport Beach, CA
George Wu   Newport Beach, CA
As of this past weekend (October 29, 2016), 2 quicklinks hang from the anchor pins on an aging piece of webbing. The originally one inch white webbing is yellowed and stiff from weather, and therefore somewhat suspect. Each quick link is then individually backed up to one of the pins; one of 6 mm cord and the other on a Spectra sling. The backups looked to be in better condition, and were the only reason I was willing to trust the anchor to hold a lead fall.

Recommend everyone inspect and be prepared to replace as age and sun take their inevitable toll. I'm no expert on anchors, but perhaps having just the quicklinks directly on the pins would be safer overall? Every leader would then have to complete the anchor with a sling of presumably known quality. Oct 30, 2016
Jeff K  
As of 4/21/18, there is only 1 pin with some sun-dried webbing on it with a quicklink, plus a giant horn slung with some good looking cord (see picture added above). Apr 22, 2018