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> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland North
> Middle Kingdom
> Outer Mongolia
> Siberia
Weo
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.1 from 15
votes
Routes in Siberia
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A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leon Redbone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Hornington T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Sport, 170 ft (52 m) |
| GPS: | 34.06957, -116.16993 |
| FA: | Todd Gordon, John Middendorf, Grant Hiskes, Tucker Tech |
| Page Views: | 3,007 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Gordon on May 6, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is down and to the right of the small tower Gandy. Bolts and fixed pins protect this route. The crux is down low on a slab past a bolt or two. There is an anchor on top to make a short rap ( or downclimb) and soon you will be near the start of the climb Toby, on the left side of the main Sibera area of Outer Mongolia. This climb is one of the easiest climbs in the area, has well-enough protection, has some length to it, and is worth a visit, but is often overlooked because it takes a few extra minutes to get to the base, and it's away from the main staging area by a few minutes as well.
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