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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Adam Stackhouse
Page Views: 1,428 total, 15/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 6, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is down and to the right of the small tower Gandy. Bolts and fixed pins protect this route. The crux is down low on a slab past a bolt or two. There is an anchor on top to make a short rap ( or downclimb) and soon you will be near the start of the climb Toby, on the left side of the main Sibera area of Outer Mongolia. This climb is one of the easiest climbs in the area, has well-enough protection, has some length to it, and is worth a visit, but is often overlooked because it takes a few extra minutes to get to the base, and it's away from the main staging area by a few minutes as well.

Location

Down and right from the climb Gandy.

Protection

Quick Draws for bolts and fixed pins.

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Did the climb yesterday;...there are 7 bolts and one fixed piton on the climb, as well as a fixed anchor on top (bolt/pin/sling/ring)..... Jan 11, 2015
Nick Y.  
Partner climbed this route on 3/30 and said there was no anchor at the top. Had to lower off a runner (not the safest). If there is a(n) (two-bolt?) anchor, more info on location would be great for future climbers. Apr 10, 2012