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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: George Armstrong, Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech.
Page Views: 3,797 total, 24/month
Shared By: Randy on Oct 12, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs the dark patina-covered, buttress (Buttress 3) just right of the buttress/face containing Dos Chi Chis and Yasmine Bleeth (Buttress 2, which has pointer above it).

Climb up past 6 bolts to a ledge [the Cross-Roads Finish, route 477, begins off this ledge]. 2 more bolts protect face to another ledge/block and a 2 bolt anchor/rap (100 feet!).

The logical finish to this route is to make a short (35 foot) rap down to the ledge system below, then climb left onto a very narrow and overbolted buttress [Cross-Roads Finish; route 477]. From the top of Cross Roads Finish, you can rap from slings to the rap anchor atop George's Route and make a second rap [100'] to the ground.

Protection

8 bolts; 2 bolt anchor, 100 foot rap off. Optional gear to 2.5 inches.

Photos

attila
5.7
attila  
5.7
Easy and fun. Pro is good, anchor is well placed. Feb 13, 2010
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
There is now a FP on the ledge, so there is something to clip before heading up to the last to bolts on the final headwall.....it's a wee bit hidden in an overlap, but still one should see it;....It's about a 1 1/2 in. big angle piton.... May 27, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Decent climbing, but the first few moves are on somewhat questionable rock, and a fall before the first bolt is not a good idea. A #1 Camalot (or equivalent) can be place between bolts 6 and 7 if desired to ease the runout.

Easily done in one pitch up and down with a 60 meter rope; it's about 90' down to the top of the starting block. Two stars out of five. Feb 25, 2006
Woody Stark
  5.7
Woody Stark  
  5.7
Good warm-up for Dos Chichis and Yasmin Bleeth. It's well protected and has rap anchors to take you to the bottom with one rope. It's definitely the easiest of the three. Oct 27, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
a 60meter rope gets you all the way up and down. No anchors are at the ledge so if by some chance you wish to do it with a 50meter rope and in two pitches be prepared to rig a rap anchor from the ledge and leave it behind for we locals to get some more "booty"....... May 12, 2005