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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Tucker Tech
Page Views: 515 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chris D on Feb 6, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start up the left-facing corner, moving to the right at the top of the corner after a fun lie-back move near the small black water-streak. Above the corner and to the right follow a crack/seam to the white headwall with brown patina plates and a ledge with a two-bolt rap station.

Location

This starts in the obvious left-facing corner above and to the left of the big roof at the bottom of the west face of Siberia

Protection

Fixed pin mentioned in guidebook is gone. Crux move is a .7 or .8 lieback about 25 feet up. There is no gear for the first 35 feet. Blowing the crux would send you down a chasm below the start of the route, maybe a 40-foot fall with a bad landing.

This route and Glen's Crack can be toproped by traversing right and around a grainy corner from the anchor for Irish Toothache (which climbs right up the arete on the horizon at the left of the photo) to the two-bolt anchor on the ledge.

Toproping with a 60 meter rope will require some easy downclimbing unless you extend the anchor about five feet.

Photos

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