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> Wonderland North
> Middle Kingdom
> Outer Mongolia
> Siberia
Jack
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British X
Avg: 1.6 from 5
votes
Routes in Siberia
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A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leon Redbone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Hornington T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Todd Gordon & Tucker Tech |
| Page Views: | 1,211 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Chris D on Feb 6, 2012 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Description
Start up the left-facing corner, moving to the right at the top of the corner after a fun lie-back move near the small black water-streak. Above the corner and to the right follow a crack/seam to the white headwall with brown patina plates and a ledge with a two-bolt rap station.
Location
This starts in the obvious left-facing corner above and to the left of the big roof at the bottom of the west face of Siberia
Protection
Fixed pin mentioned in guidebook is gone. Crux move is a .7 or .8 lieback about 25 feet up. There is no gear for the first 35 feet. Blowing the crux would send you down a chasm below the start of the route, maybe a 40-foot fall with a bad landing.
This route and Glen's Crack can be toproped by traversing right and around a grainy corner from the anchor for Irish Toothache (which climbs right up the arete on the horizon at the left of the photo) to the two-bolt anchor on the ledge.
Toproping with a 60 meter rope will require some easy downclimbing unless you extend the anchor about five feet.
This route and Glen's Crack can be toproped by traversing right and around a grainy corner from the anchor for Irish Toothache (which climbs right up the arete on the horizon at the left of the photo) to the two-bolt anchor on the ledge.
Toproping with a 60 meter rope will require some easy downclimbing unless you extend the anchor about five feet.
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