Elevation: 4,160 ft
GPS: 34.066, -116.171 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 63,875 total · 303/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 16, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Outer Mongolia is comprised of several large formations north of the trail that leads to the North Wonderland. The Middle Kingdom is south of Outer Mongolia.

Siberia is the largest formation and its southeast face is easily visible from the trail. There are many easy and moderate (5.8 - 5.10-) multipitch face/slab climbs that are well protected by bolts and pitons on the southeast face. These climbs are fun and the view at the top is all encompassing. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chichis (5.9+) are two of the best here.

Directly north of Siberia are two east - west running gullies; the Siberian Corridor and the Khan Corridor respectively. These gullies are best accessed by scrambling over boulders in a north - south wash directly west of Siberia. Genghis Khan (5.11b) and The Mongolian Lieback (5.12a) are two stellar climbs on an overhanging north face in the Khan Corridor.

More routes for this area are described in The Wonderland Guide by Alan Bartlett.

Getting There

The approach to Outer Mongolia begins at the Boy Scout Trail to Indian Cove parking area.

Follow this trail for about two miles (take the right branch heading northeast towards the Wonderland of Rocks) until the large face of Siberia is visible from the trail. Walk north for 1/4 mile to reach the crags.

The turn off for the crag is now denoted by a trail marker that explicitly states there is a climber's trail for 'Outer Mongolia'. Took roughly 40 minutes to get to said marker hiking at a decent pace. Plan 10-30 minutes for the scramble up, depending on how oriented you already are with the area.

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Outer Mongolia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 28
Yellow Peril
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 28
Cross-Roads Finish
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 28
Asian Fever
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 73
George's Route (aka Binder)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Original Route (aka Jake Off)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 97
Yasmine Bleeth
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 75
Gandy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 54
A Bull with Gas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 128
Dos Chi Chis
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Toby
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
Love Gas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Hollywood Rattlesnake
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 27
Showers With Dad
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 4
The Bazooka
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Yellow Peril W Mongolia > Asian Fever Buttress
 28
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Cross-Roads Finish Siberia
 28
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Asian Fever W Mongolia > Asian Fever Buttress
 28
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
George's Route (aka Binder) Siberia
 73
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Original Route (aka Jake Off) Siberia
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Yasmine Bleeth Siberia
 97
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Gandy Siberia
 75
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
A Bull with Gas Siberia
 54
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dos Chi Chis Siberia
 128
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Toby Siberia
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Love Gas Siberia
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hollywood Rattlesnake Siberia
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Showers With Dad Siberia
 27
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Bazooka Siberia
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Outer Mongolia »

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