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Areas in Outer Mongolia

Khan Corridor 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Siberia 10 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
West Mongolia 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Description

Outer Mongolia is comprised of several large formations north of the trail that leads to the North Wonderland. The Middle Kingdom is south of Outer Mongolia.

Siberia is the largest formation and its southeast face is easily visible from the trail. There are many easy and moderate (5.8 - 5.10-) multipitch face/slab climbs that are well protected by bolts and pitons on the southeast face. These climbs are fun and the view at the top is all encompassing. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chichis (5.9+) are two of the best here.

Directly north of Siberia are two east - west running gullies; the Siberian Corridor and the Khan Corridor respectively. These gullies are best accessed by scrambling over boulders in a north - south wash directly west of Siberia. Genghis Khan (5.11b) and The Mongolian Lieback (5.12a) are two stellar climbs on an overhanging north face in the Khan Corridor.

More routes for this area are described in The Wonderland Guide by Alan Bartlett.

Getting There

The approach to Outer Mongolia begins at the Boy Scout Trail to Indian Cove parking area.

Follow this trail for about two miles (take the right branch heading northeast towards the Wonderland of Rocks) until the large face of Siberia is visible from the trail. Walk north for 1/4 mile to reach the crags.

The turn off for the crag is now denoted by a trail marker that explicitly states there is a climber's trail for 'Outer Mongolia'. Took roughly 40 minutes to get to said marker hiking at a decent pace. Plan 10-30 minutes for the scramble up, depending on how oriented you already are with the area.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Outer Mongolia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Yellow Peril
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Asian Fever
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cross-Roads Finish
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
George's Route (aka Binder)
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yasmine Bleeth
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gandy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Bull with Gas
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hollywood Rattlesnake
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dos Chi Chis
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toby
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Gas
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Showers With Dad
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
The Bazooka
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Yellow Peril W Mongolia > Asian Fever Buttress 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Asian Fever W Mongolia > Asian Fever Buttress 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cross-Roads Finish Siberia 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
George's Route (aka Binder) Siberia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Yasmine Bleeth Siberia 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Gandy Siberia 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
A Bull with Gas Siberia 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hollywood Rattlesnake Siberia 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Dos Chi Chis Siberia 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Toby Siberia 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Love Gas Siberia 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Showers With Dad Siberia 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Bazooka Siberia 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
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Nick Y.  
Climbed in Siberia on 3/30. Updates for "Getting There": There aren't any signs at the parking area for 'Key's Corner'; instead, it's marked as 'Boy Scout Trail'. Hike out follows the trail as described. The turn off for the crag is now denoted by a trail marker that explicitly states there is a climber's trail for 'Outer Mongolia'. Took roughly 40 minutes to get to said marker hiking at a decent pace. Plan 10-30 minutes for the scramble up, depending on how oriented you already are with the area. Apr 1, 2012

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