Elevation: 4,160 ft
GPS: 34.06583, -116.17095
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 98,134 total · 405/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 16, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Outer Mongolia is comprised of several large formations north of the trail that leads to the North Wonderland. The Middle Kingdom is south of Outer Mongolia.

Siberia is the largest formation and its southeast face is easily visible from the trail. There are many easy and moderate (5.8 - 5.10-) multipitch face/slab climbs that are well protected by bolts and pitons on the southeast face. These climbs are fun and the view at the top is all encompassing. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chichis (5.9+) are two of the best here.

Directly north of Siberia are two east - west running gullies; the Siberian Corridor and the Khan Corridor respectively. These gullies are best accessed by scrambling over boulders in a north - south wash directly west of Siberia. Genghis Khan (5.11b) and The Mongolian Lieback (5.12a) are two stellar climbs on an overhanging north face in the Khan Corridor.

More routes for this area are described in The Wonderland Guide by Alan Bartlett.

Getting There

The approach to Outer Mongolia begins at the Boy Scout Trail to Indian Cove parking area.

Follow this trail for about two miles (take the right branch heading northeast towards the Wonderland of Rocks) until the large face of Siberia is visible from the trail. Walk north for 1/4 mile to reach the crags.

The turn off for the crag is now denoted by a trail marker that explicitly states there is a climber's trail for 'Outer Mongolia'. Took roughly 40 minutes to get to said marker hiking at a decent pace. Plan 10-30 minutes for the scramble up, depending on how oriented you already are with the area.

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Outer Mongolia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 38
Yellow Peril
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 35
Asian Friends
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 37
Cross-Roads Finish
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
Weo
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 87
George's Route (aka Binder)
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Original Route (aka Jake Off)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 112
Yasmine Bleeth
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 88
Gandy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
A Bull with Gas
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 142
Dos Chi Chis
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Toby
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
Love Gas
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 31
Showers With Dad
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 5
The Bazooka
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Yellow Peril W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
 38
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Asian Friends W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
 35
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cross-Roads Finish Siberia
 37
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Weo Siberia
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
George's Route (aka Binder) Siberia
 87
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Original Route (aka Jake Off) Siberia
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Yasmine Bleeth Siberia
 112
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Gandy Siberia
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
A Bull with Gas Siberia
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dos Chi Chis Siberia
 142
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Toby Siberia
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Love Gas Siberia
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Showers With Dad Siberia
 31
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Bazooka Siberia
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
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