Love Gas
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.06957, -116.16993 |
| FA: | Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Tom Burke |
| Page Views: | 5,041 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Blitzo on Oct 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is to the right of "A Bull With Gas". Climb the low angle ramp mentioned in the "Bull with Gas" description to the right and up steep plates (5.9), passing a bolt, several fixed pins and seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Face Climbing (5.10a), passes two bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Another short, easy pitch can be done to the summit.
Two bolt rappel anchors on top. A 60 meter rope is mandatory and a 70 meter is better.



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