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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Tom Burke
Page Views: 3,081 total, 25/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 17, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is to the right of "A Bull With Gas". Climb the low angle ramp mentioned in the "Bull with Gas" description to the right and up steep plates (5.9), passing a bolt, several fixed pins and seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Face Climbing (5.10a), passes two bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Another short, easy pitch can be done to the summit.
Two bolt rappel anchors on top. A 60 meter rope is mandatory and a 70 meter is better.

Protection

Lots of draws.
Nick Y.
 
Nick Y.  
 
Climbed to the first anchor on 3/30 - can 'third' the comments on loose holds. There are seven bolts and two pins on that pitch. First two bolts and two pins are probably within no more than 15 foot of each other, so you can pretty safely skip the pins.

60m rap off the first anchor puts you about 3-5 feet above the bottom of the ramp. No problem to come off and smear your way down beyond that.

Two fairly well camo'ed bolts above the first belay station. Goes over a lip after though, so no more topo beyond that. Apr 1, 2012
Pete eye
Fort Collins, CO
 
Pete eye   Fort Collins, CO
 
climbing quality is classic, but be gentle on the loose plates sections so the climb remains for years to come. Pull down not out. Nov 26, 2009
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
With any amount of traffic, lots of pieces are going to get pulled off of this one. Might want to give your belayer a hard hat.

The beautiful setting and fantastic views make this climb. Certainly not the rock quality, which is loose and chossy. Feb 19, 2008