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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Mark Hoffman
Page Views: 1,457 total, 9/month
Shared By: Randy on Oct 12, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This fun face climb lies on the right side of Buttress 4. Buttress 4 is the clean looking face to the right of the area in shadow (to the right of the face with the "pointer"-which is buttress 2)

Climb up past 6 or 7 bolts (crux) to a large ledge. Continue up past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 100 foot rap.

As mentioned elsewhere, Broken Dreams (on the Kamchatka Block) is easily reached from the top of this route.

Protection

12 or so draws.

Photos

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toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Toby is a great great climb;....but it doesn't get done so much because you have to scramble about 5 minutes over to the base......it is harder and the moves are thin too;....it's awesome. Dec 2, 2013
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10-
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10-
best route at east siberia. climb buckets with 2 bolts to get to a short easy section, then follow 3 bolts along a faint, diagonal dike to another short, easy section which leads to a steeper headwall with 3 more bolts.

i would call the dike (friction) section solid 10a and the headwall section 5.9. this climb is (imho) significantly better (and just as hard or harder) than dos chi chis. crux sections are well protected, but there is decking potential elsewhere.

a 70m rope made it to the ground with little rope to spare. i would assume a 60m rope to be a bit of a stretch. most new books give this route 9 or 10 bolts. i only saw/clipped eight. Dec 2, 2013
Of the handful of .9's and .10's I did out here in Mongolia, this one felt the hardest because it was the most sustained. 5.9+++. Jan 7, 2013