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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Tom Burke
Page Views: 6,645 total, 42/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begin on the left side of the middle buttress, left of Dos Chi Chis (5.10a), on a small ledge. Make some exposed moves up to the 1st bolt (easier and less exposed to the right) and then work your way upwards in a left-trending fashion to a cruxy section past the 5th bolt. The moves past the 5th bolt are a little thinner and somewhat loose as well, but they soon give way to solid rock and stellar moves over a small roof. Above the roof a short section of enjoyable face climbing leads to a 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Dos Chi Chis).

Rap off from the anchor (90') or continue up Dos Chi Chis past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge system. Rap off from here (2 single rope raps w/ a 60 meter rope) or continue past 5 more bolts (5.10a) to the top of the formation. Descend from the top of the formation in 3 single rope raps (see the Dos Chi Chis page for more detailed information).

This is a well-protected climb with engaging moves on quality rock. There's some loose rock on the route, but that should clean up in time and make this even more enjoyable. Three stars out of five (four if you go to the summit).

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9-
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9-
Did the DCC and YB the other day. Yasmin is for sure a bit easier than DCC. Good long route with plenty of bolts. Loose stuff that is still around is only a bit creaky but solid. I liked this route better than the DCC due to the abundance of patina edges. Nice stuff! Dec 1, 2013
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
You are welcome, Mike.....such a great climb and such a fitting name too......... Apr 12, 2012
Mike Fogarty
La Quinta, CA
 
Mike Fogarty   La Quinta, CA
 
This has to be one of the most classic 5.9 sport routes I have done. Mr. Gorden thank you for your hard work. Apr 12, 2012
attila  
This is a sustained climb with some strenuous clipping stances. A bit chossy, but still a fun route. Look out for the ant nest at the roof. Those little guys bite! Feb 13, 2010
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
The FA party rated every route on this dome 5.8.

Ratings are subjective. Nov 1, 2009
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.9
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.9
Loved this route, along with everything else in Siberia. I found it a bit easier than dos chi chis. It seems that high-stepping is the solution to about every move on this one, but on a thin face, that's a lot of fun :-) May 26, 2009
Woody Stark
  5.8
Woody Stark  
  5.8
An enjoyable route. If you climb this and Dos Chichis, one after the other, I believe you'll notice a significant difference in difficulty: the second pitch of DCC is "at least" a point more difficult on the second pitch yet quite a few people rate both routes the same. Oh, well. Oct 27, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8+
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8+
Did this one also today and still find it harder than DosChichis........I see where Randy has it the other way around. It perhaps is a height thing. Some of the loose flakes have broken off and there are more to come. I actually almost rated DosChichis as 5.8 but did not want to cause a stir...oh well..........do it for yourself and enjoy! Both are really fun........ Dec 7, 2004
Randy
  5.9-
Randy  
  5.9-
This is a 1 pitch route that ends at the 2 bolt belay/rap anchor near the top of the 1st pitch of Dos Chi Chis. At that point you can either rap/lower or continue up Dos Chi Chis.

It has some loose flakes and at one point the logical climbing strays a bit right of where the bolts would indicate. A obvious route to do after climbing Dos Chi Chis. Oct 14, 2004
Yasmine Bleath.....ahhh, yes..... Mar 17, 2004