Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech, Tom Burke
Page Views: 8,603 total · 49/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begin on the left side of the middle buttress, left of Dos Chi Chis, on a small ledge. Make some exposed moves up to the 1st bolt (easier and less exposed to the right) and then work your way upwards in a left-trending fashion to a cruxy section past the 5th bolt. The moves past the 5th bolt are a little thinner and somewhat loose as well, but they soon give way to solid rock and stellar moves over a small roof. Above the roof a short section of enjoyable face climbing leads to a 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Dos Chi Chis).

Rap off from the anchor (90') or continue up Dos Chi Chis past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge system. Rap off from here (2 single rope raps w/ a 60 meter rope) or continue past 5 more bolts (5.10a) to the top of the formation. Descend from the top of the formation in 3 single rope raps (see the Dos Chi Chis page for more detailed information).

This is a well-protected climb with engaging moves on quality rock. There's some loose rock on the route, but that should clean up in time and make this even more enjoyable. Three stars out of five (four if you go to the summit).

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos