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Broken Dreams
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Siberia
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A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leon Redbone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Hornington T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.06957, -116.16993 |
| FA: | (TR) Jon Regelbrugge, Brian Gengler, 2/92 (Lead) Wally Barker, 12/96. |
| Page Views: | 1,528 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Oct 12, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This attractive crack climb lies on the north facing Kamchatka Block on the far right side of the Siberian Corridor. The Kamchatka Block is actually the north face of the summit block of Buttress 4 of East Siberia [Dos Chi Chis lies on the south face of Buttress 2]. In the photo, it is the "back-side" of the shaded triangular block to the right of the "pointer" [the 2nd to the right summit block].
Probably the best (most fun) way to get to the route would be (1) To climb George's Route [route 476] with the Cross-Roads Finish (route 477] on Buttress 3 and walk down the back slab and to your right [this is the gap just right of the "pointer" in the photo]; or (2) Climb Toby [route 481] and scramble up and to the right then around left to the base of the the Kamchatka Block.
This route is easily distinguished as a thin left leaning crack in a very oblique left facing corner on steep orangish rock. The route starts immediately behind a large pine tree. It is presumed the name is derived from the somewhat loose rock found near the top of the crack.
Well worth doing if you are climbing one of the routes on the main East Siberia face. If the last bit of the crack did not have several loose holds, this would be a 3+ of 5 star route; but probably 2 of 5.
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