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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: (TR) Jon Regelbrugge, Brian Gengler, 2/92 (Lead) Wally Barker, 12/96.
Page Views: 626 total, 4/month
Shared By: Randy on Oct 12, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This attractive crack climb lies on the north facing Kamchatka Block on the far right side of the Siberian Corridor. The Kamchatka Block is actually the north face of the summit block of Buttress 4 of East Siberia [Dos Chi Chis lies on the south face of Buttress 2]. In the photo, it is the "back-side" of the shaded triangular block to the right of the "pointer" [the 2nd to the right summit block].

Probably the best (most fun) way to get to the route would be (1) To climb George's Route [route 476] with the Cross-Roads Finish (route 477] on Buttress 3 and walk down the back slab and to your right [this is the gap just right of the "pointer" in the photo]; or (2) Climb Toby [route 481] and scramble up and to the right then around left to the base of the the Kamchatka Block.

This route is easily distinguished as a thin left leaning crack in a very oblique left facing corner on steep orangish rock. The route starts immediately behind a large pine tree. It is presumed the name is derived from the somewhat loose rock found near the top of the crack.

Well worth doing if you are climbing one of the routes on the main East Siberia face. If the last bit of the crack did not have several loose holds, this would be a 3+ of 5 star route; but probably 2 of 5.

Protection

Thin to 2 inches.

Photos

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