Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: T. Gordon, T. Tech
Page Views: 314 total · 5/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Dec 7, 2013
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Good rock and plenty of features make this climb worthy. No way it is 5.10b unless you actually try to stay way right and not use any obvious holds on the face just left of the crack. I would say it is in the 5.8 range above small gear.

Location

Takes off at the actual point where the big roof/arch pinches down on the left end of the slab.

Protection

Thin stuff like wires and a few small cams to about 1.5". Two bolt anchor at the top with rap rings. It is thin, but there is pro available.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10b
Easy to TR after doing something like Glens Crack and rapping over, or coming in from the Original Route. We TR'd the thing and found that near the start even being to the left of the crack on the face just 2 feet made for easy climbing in the 5.8 range. Dec 7, 2013
Obecian
  5.8
Obecian  
  5.8
We also top-roped it and with a couple variations found to be no harder than 5.8 climbing. Fun but nowhere near the 10b rating. Jan 26, 2016