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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: T. Gordon, T. Tech
Page Views: 274 total, 6/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Dec 7, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Good rock and plenty of features make this climb worthy. No way it is 5.10b unless you actually try to stay way right and not use any obvious holds on the face just left of the crack. I would say it is in the 5.8 range above small gear.

Location

Takes off at the actual point where the big roof/arch pinches down on the left end of the slab.

Protection

Thin stuff like wires and a few small cams to about 1.5". Two bolt anchor at the top with rap rings. It is thin, but there is pro available.

Photos

Obecian
  5.8
Obecian  
  5.8
We also top-roped it and with a couple variations found to be no harder than 5.8 climbing. Fun but nowhere near the 10b rating. Jan 26, 2016
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Easy to TR after doing something like Glens Crack and rapping over, or coming in from the Original Route. We TR'd the thing and found that near the start even being to the left of the crack on the face just 2 feet made for easy climbing in the 5.8 range. Dec 7, 2013