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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: T. Gordon and S. Olsen
Page Views: 301 total, 6/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Dec 7, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

After walking the plank a bit up and right you are able to stand under the bolt just above the roof. Here you can put in a real small cam in a slot just under the lip of the roof. This might save your life if you pop trying to get a real small wired in just above the roof. Now you need to do the move, or at least some of it, before clipping the bolt above the roof. Some sort of standup move will lead to easier climbing and additional protection hopefully as needed.

Location

Start as for Old Hornington and move up and right along the ramp until you are under the lone bolt above the roof. Two bolt anchor with rap rings at the top.

Protection

Thin stuff to start, then a bolt, then according to the Vogel guide, pro to 2". Two bolt anchor at the top with rap rings.

Photos

Obecian
  5.10a PG13
Obecian  
  5.10a PG13
one move wonder on scary pro but worth a top rope after Jake Off Jan 26, 2016
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
I tried to lead this thing as the morning warmup. That didn't go to well as I never got in any pro I thought would hold and the retreat/downclimb was sorta sketch.

So after doing another route to reach the anchors atop this thing, we dropped a TR down and got ready to slay the beast. Flat could not do it! Gave it a few tries with different methods and just could not make it happen. The pro to start looked real thin, and if you popped, you would be a mess as there is no landing. You could probably clip the bolt once you toss a foot up over the lip of the roof from a contorted scrunch. Don't kick your pro out! Not something I would go back out there to do. Dec 7, 2013