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Routes in Siberia

A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Gordon, George Armstrong, Rick Corbin, Greg Epperson, Kelby Burnham, Tucker Tech
Page Views: 10,391 total · 63/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1) Climb steep slab (5.9) with intermittent patina past 8 bolts to an intermediate belay, clip the belay and climb past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge. P2) Climb up and left from the left side of the ledge to a vague arete past 5 bolts via insecure smears (5.10a) to the top of the formation.

Descend the route in 3 rappels with a single 60 meter rope - one rap from the summit to the large ledge, another to the intermediate belay below the large ledge and one more to the base.

The well-protected climbing in a remote location makes this a highly recommended moderate route. While the climbing is good, the view from the top is unparalled and offers far-reaching views of the entire Wonderland, Saddle Rocks and the 29 Palms Marine Corps Base. Three, maybe four, stars out of five.

Location

This high-quality two-pitch face climb is located on the right side of the south-facing, central buttress just right of Yasmine Bleeth.

Protection

P1) 10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap; P2) 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")
Randy
  5.10a
Randy  
  5.10a
A fun 2 pitch outing that is sure to be one of the most popular routes of its rating in the Park once the new guide comes out. Lots of moderate and long sport routes here.

The best part about this and the other routes that end on the top of the formation is the view. One of the best views from any formation in the entire Park.

A 3-4 star out of 5 route. Oct 14, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9+
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9+
Lead this again today and it felt like 5.9 at best. It is a really fun route. Two 60m ropes for one rap.......... Dec 7, 2004
Woody Stark
  5.10a
Woody Stark  
  5.10a
A lot of fun and well protected. Oct 27, 2005
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
This is a fun route - long first pitch with one tricky move, crux on the second pitch, which is one 5.10a move on a thin slab. IMHO there 2 too many bolts on this route - there's pro in the horizontal on the first pitch, and there's pro at the top of the second pitch. Hard to imagine ths route went ignored for so long. Feb 21, 2006
Chris, thanks for the single rope rap info for this route (and others) Jan 6, 2007
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
As has been said, a fun climb with incredible views. Personally I think the location is better than the actual climbing.

With future popularity I would look for this route to become more difficult as those prescious little knobbies one steps up at the crux of P1 wear away. The rock on these faces is generally quite friable. Feb 19, 2008
Pete eye
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
Pete eye   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
put your right foot on the left chi chi...and your good Nov 26, 2009
attila  
Only did the first pitch to the rap anchor. Fun climb, easier than the climb to the left, Yasmine Bleeth. This wall in general doesn't have stellar rock quality - belayers, wear your helmet! The stances to clip are all easy and secure (for a 6-foot climber, anyway). Feb 13, 2010
nealg
 
nealg  
 
perfect climbs on busy w/e days; warm and sunny all day.

great JT face climb; most tightly bolted route I've done in the park.

make sure to tick Yasmine's and the two 5.9 / 10a's on Buttress #1 whil you out in 'Siberia' - ALL GREAT! Mar 28, 2010
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a
This route and its cousin to the left are both top shelf if you are into sport face. DCC was a bit harder than YB and has less of those nice patina edges to latch onto. It seems as though quite a few knobs or edges have become rounded or broke off from use, but plenty remain to make this a fun and only slightly tenuous outing. Dec 1, 2013
Louis Machado
La mesa, ca
Louis Machado   La mesa, ca
Buddy had a old piton pop out near the small roof section Nov 11, 2014
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Did the climb yesterday;..the missing piton by the small roof on pitch one has been replaced with a bolt.... Jan 6, 2015
Maybe I am new to the term single rope rappels, but do people usually climb with half ropes (60M) and make a double rope rappel?

Basically I want to know if I can just take my ONE 60m rope and rappel off that ONE rope to the next anchor(s).

Thanks in advance!! Apr 6, 2016
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Yes, just one rope is needed to rappel; changed the wording in the route description to, hopefully, make it more clear. Apr 7, 2016
C. Miller,

Thank you for the information. Looking forward to the climb in the coming weeks. Apr 7, 2016
Ice4life   US
WHEN YOU RAP FROM TOP, rap past belay ledge anchors, even though there are rap rings on em, and go to the second set, the ones you pass on the way up, otherwise your rope WILL NOT make it down...

I have a Maxium glider 9.8 70m rope and it DID NOT make it down... Dec 14, 2016
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
I do three single rope rappels.... Dec 15, 2016
David Aldama
Running Springs, CA
 
David Aldama   Running Springs, CA
 
Bring your smearing shoes! Great route. Dec 9, 2017
Hobo Greg
My Van
5.9
Hobo Greg   My Van
5.9
Beautiful area, sheltered from wind, sunny, perfect winter spot. Felt easier than Loose Lady which is 5.9. Dec 16, 2017

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