All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Wonderland of Rocks > Wonderland North > The Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > Siberia
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Routes in Siberia
|A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Leon Redbone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Old Hornington T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|Page Views:||589 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Chris D on Feb 6, 2012|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionEither start from the bottom of the seam, or make a couple of delicate face moves (5.8?) to gain the right-trending seam. after 25 feet or so, step right into the next seam over. Angle eases after 30 or 40 feet. Continue up the seam to the chossy headwall with brown patina plates to a ledge with a two-bolt rap station.
LocationThis is the seam about 6 feet left of Jack, which is the left-facing corner above and to the left of the obvious roof.
ProtectionVery sparse pro for the first 30 feet or so, which includes the crux. Probably some moves at 7 or 8 at the start. Be a confident 5.8 leader if you're going to lead this, and take thin gear and small nuts.
This route and Jack can be toproped by climbing Irish Toothache (which climbs right up the arete on the horizon at the left of the photo) and traversing right to achieve the ledge where the rap rings are for this route.
Toproping with a 60 meter rope will require some easy downclimbing unless you extend the anchor about five feet.