Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Glen's Crack
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British R
Avg: 1.5 from 8
votes
Routes in Siberia
|
|
A Bull with Gas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Bazooka, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Ben Scabbyface T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Broken Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Child Proof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Cross-Roads Finish S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Dos Chi Chis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Gandy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
George's Route (aka Binder) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Glen's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
|
|
Hollywood Rattlesnake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Irish Toothache S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
|
|
Kublai Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Leon Redbone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Love Gas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Old Hornington T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Randy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Showers With Dad S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Toby S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Weo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Yasmine Bleeth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.06957, -116.16993 |
| FA: | Glen |
| Page Views: | 1,681 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Chris D on Feb 6, 2012 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Either start from the bottom of the seam, or make a couple of delicate face moves (5.8?) to gain the right-trending seam. after 25 feet or so, step right into the next seam over. Angle eases after 30 or 40 feet. Continue up the seam to the chossy headwall with brown patina plates to a ledge with a two-bolt rap station.
Location
This is the seam about 6 feet left of Jack, which is the left-facing corner above and to the left of the obvious roof.
Protection
Very sparse pro for the first 30 feet or so, which includes the crux. Probably some moves at 7 or 8 at the start. Be a confident 5.8 leader if you're going to lead this, and take thin gear and small nuts.
This route and Jack can be toproped by climbing Irish Toothache (which climbs right up the arete on the horizon at the left of the photo) and traversing right to achieve the ledge where the rap rings are for this route.
Toproping with a 60 meter rope will require some easy downclimbing unless you extend the anchor about five feet.
0 Comments