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All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Nat… > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > Grey Giant Area > The Flying Fortress

No Self Confidence

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British


 Avg: 3.5 from 11 votes

Routes in The Flying Fortress

42N8 One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hyperventilation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Day Yesterday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Self Confidence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Self Control T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
No Self Respect T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thumbs Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Troglodyte Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Dennis Yates and Roger Linfield, Dec. 1983
Page Views: 2,038 total · 10/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the right of 2 similar flares in the middle of the south face. Both have sustained hand cracks.

Protection

standard rack, esp hands

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No Self Confidence
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8 Comments

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Vernon Stiefel
Vernon Stiefel  
FA: Yates and Linfield, Dec. 1983. When I climbed this route in the fall of '02 there was an overcammed 3.5 camalot near the top. Great crack climb (4 out of 5 stars). I think 10c is fair. Apr 24, 2003
Roger Linfield
Roger Linfield  
This was a very memorable climb for Dennis. After spending most of the day at the Gray Giant, we tried to find a shortcut back to the main trail. By mistake, we stumbled into the broad valley between the Fortress and Flying Fortress, and then looked around in amazement. It was Dennis' turn to lead, and despite the late hour he picked this climb. It was his first ever 5.10 crack lead, but he went up it smoothly. After I followed, we quickly scrambled down, and then hiked out in the dark. His name for the climb was "Back on My Feet Again," celebrating his recovery from major back surgery. Mar 30, 2006
Randy
Randy  
Roger, It would be nice to know these things before the guide is finished. I have no problem changing names (or putting akas). Thanks for posting the story. Mar 31, 2006
Adam D
Los Osos, CA
Adam D   Los Osos, CA
I was glad to have a #4 for the short wide spot but it's not essential. Great steep jamming on this climb...a great line. Mar 31, 2009
fubar
Babylon
 
fubar   Babylon
 
I took the 3.5 in 2007 -- it still looks good! Jun 18, 2010
Richard Shore
 
Richard Shore  
 
Enduro hands! Maybe not the best choice for a morning "warm-up" climb. Nov 26, 2012
MikeP ROWCC
  5.10a/b
MikeP ROWCC  
  5.10a/b
I've been climbing in Jtree for over a decade and this is now my new favorite route in the park. If this was near a road the lines would be 15 parties deep every weekend. Best climb in the park that I have done! Mar 11, 2013
Tradiban
 
Tradiban  
 
Bottom third seemed the hardest, I bumped a #4 three times in a wide section about half way.

Bolted rap anchor above No Self Respect. Mar 17, 2018

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