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5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in The Flying Fortress
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42N8 One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hyperventilation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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New Day Yesterday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Self Confidence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Self Control T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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No Self Respect T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Thumbs Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Troglodyte Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.06487, -116.14877 |
| FA: | Dennis Yates and Roger Linfield, April 1985 |
| Page Views: | 728 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Apr 11, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start up the lower crack, via liebacking and jamming. A friction traverse left (5.10A) leads to the base of the lower crack. Do a few thin moves (5.10A) and reach easier jamming and the top.
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