Mountain Project Logo
Sort Route Route Details
Suggest Change:
Description Protection
Other Suggestion
Add To Page
Photo Photo (copy)
All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Nat… > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > Grey Giant Area > The Flying Fortress

No Self Respect

5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British


 Avg: 3 from 10 votes

Routes in The Flying Fortress

42N8 One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hyperventilation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Day Yesterday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Self Confidence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Self Control T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
No Self Respect T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thumbs Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Troglodyte Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Roger Linfield & Dennis Yates, Jan. 1984
Page Views: 1,286 total · 6/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the left of 2 similar flares in the middle of the south face. Both have sustained hand cracks.

Rap from slings around a boulder above No Self Control (left of the flares). I think one 60m will reach.

Protection

standard rack, esp hands

Add New Photo
Photo Photo (copy)
Photos

View of the route from the base
View of the route from the base
 0

7 Comments

Sort by: Oldest
Newest Oldest Best Beta
Vernon Stiefel
Vernon Stiefel  
FA: Linfield & Yates, Jan. 1984. Another excellent crack climb (4 out of 5 stars). I didn't think it was significantly more difficult than its neighbor to the right - Josh 5.10c. Apr 24, 2003
Brian Smith
  5.10c
Brian Smith  
  5.10c
Hmmm... I found this to be more of a stem-fest than a jam crack... until the full body squeeze at the top. A very physical climb. Mar 8, 2004
Roger Linfield
Roger Linfield  
When Dennis Yates and I did this climb (after removing a large, very loose chockstone on rappel), we rated it 5.10B. We gave it a different name, but Randy's name has stuck. Mar 30, 2006
Randy
5.10c
Randy  
5.10c
Actually, the name was (I think) a Leavitt & company name who did a subsequent ascent and named it thinking it a FA. Kinda like Illusion Dweller that way. BTW: what is the official name? Mar 31, 2006
J Smith
  5.10d
J Smith  
  5.10d
One rap with a single 60m rope will get you to a ledge and then a few feet of easy downclimbing gets you to the ground. Mar 29, 2010
fubar
Babylon
 
fubar   Babylon
 
Doing these back-to-back ups the grade, I think. The guidebook says they're the two most "Yosemite-like" cracks in Josh. No wonder no one goes there. Jun 18, 2010
Richard Shore
  5.10c/d
Richard Shore  
  5.10c/d
Way strenno! Left-side in, right knee chimney technique worked well to inch through the crux. Nov 26, 2012

More About No Self Respect

Printer-Friendly