Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Roger Linfield & Dennis Yates, Jan. 1984
Page Views: 1,326 total · 6/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the left of 2 similar flares in the middle of the south face. Both have sustained hand cracks.

Rap from slings around a boulder above No Self Control (left of the flares). I think one 60m will reach.

Protection

standard rack, esp hands

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7 Comments

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Vernon Stiefel
Vernon Stiefel  
FA: Linfield & Yates, Jan. 1984. Another excellent crack climb (4 out of 5 stars). I didn't think it was significantly more difficult than its neighbor to the right - Josh 5.10c. Apr 24, 2003
Brian Smith
  5.10c
Brian Smith  
  5.10c
Hmmm... I found this to be more of a stem-fest than a jam crack... until the full body squeeze at the top. A very physical climb. Mar 8, 2004
Roger Linfield
Roger Linfield  
When Dennis Yates and I did this climb (after removing a large, very loose chockstone on rappel), we rated it 5.10B. We gave it a different name, but Randy's name has stuck. Mar 30, 2006
Randy
5.10c
Randy  
5.10c
Actually, the name was (I think) a Leavitt & company name who did a subsequent ascent and named it thinking it a FA. Kinda like Illusion Dweller that way. BTW: what is the official name? Mar 31, 2006
J Smith
  5.10d
J Smith  
  5.10d
One rap with a single 60m rope will get you to a ledge and then a few feet of easy downclimbing gets you to the ground. Mar 29, 2010
fubar
Babylon
 
fubar   Babylon
 
Doing these back-to-back ups the grade, I think. The guidebook says they're the two most "Yosemite-like" cracks in Josh. No wonder no one goes there. Jun 18, 2010
Richard Shore
  5.10c/d
Richard Shore  
  5.10c/d
Way strenno! Left-side in, right knee chimney technique worked well to inch through the crux. Nov 26, 2012