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Routes in The Flying Fortress

42N8 One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hyperventilation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Day Yesterday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Self Confidence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Self Control T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
No Self Respect T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thumbs Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Troglodyte Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Roger Linfield & Dennis Yates, Jan. 1984
Page Views: 1,236 total, 6/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the left of 2 similar flares in the middle of the south face. Both have sustained hand cracks.

Rap from slings around a boulder above No Self Control (left of the flares). I think one 60m will reach.

Protection

standard rack, esp hands

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.10c/d
Richard Shore  
  5.10c/d
Way strenno! Left-side in, right knee chimney technique worked well to inch through the crux. Nov 26, 2012
fubar
Babylon
 
fubar   Babylon
 
Doing these back-to-back ups the grade, I think. The guidebook says they're the two most "Yosemite-like" cracks in Josh. No wonder no one goes there. Jun 18, 2010
J Smith
  5.10d
J Smith  
  5.10d
One rap with a single 60m rope will get you to a ledge and then a few feet of easy downclimbing gets you to the ground. Mar 29, 2010
Randy
5.10c
Randy  
5.10c
Actually, the name was (I think) a Leavitt & company name who did a subsequent ascent and named it thinking it a FA. Kinda like Illusion Dweller that way. BTW: what is the official name? Mar 31, 2006
When Dennis Yates and I did this climb (after removing a large, very loose chockstone on rappel), we rated it 5.10B. We gave it a different name, but Randy's name has stuck. Mar 30, 2006
Brian Smith
  5.10c
Brian Smith  
  5.10c
Hmmm... I found this to be more of a stem-fest than a jam crack... until the full body squeeze at the top. A very physical climb. Mar 8, 2004
FA: Linfield & Yates, Jan. 1984. Another excellent crack climb (4 out of 5 stars). I didn't think it was significantly more difficult than its neighbor to the right - Josh 5.10c. Apr 24, 2003