Type: Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: D. O'Kelley & D. Davis ,1970: FFA - J. Long, K. Worrall, T. Sorenson, & R. Accomazzo, 1974
Page Views: 3,083 total · 19/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 18, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Begin at the left end of the south face and climb a low angle crack (some loose rock) that eventually becomes steeper and arches right underneath a large roof. The crux (11d), protected by a #00 TCU, black alien, or small stopper, entails committing moves to the portion of the crack where the roof begins. From here, underclings and hand / fist jams for 80 ft. lead to the anchors (sustained 5.10).

Pitch #2 (5.10) is a short traverse and consists of climbing that is comparable to the latter part of the first pitch.

Pitch #3 (11d) is initially very bouldery and deceptively difficult from the onset. Very small cams / stoppers and two fixed copperheads (solid) protect the hardest moves.

Classic route in a secluded setting.


Very small cams to 3.5", doubles for 1/4" to 2", small to medium stoppers. Two bolt (1/4") anchor at top of pitch #1. Small to medium cams for anchor at end of pitch #2. Two bolt (1/4" buttonheads) anchor at end of pitch #3. Two rappels to the ground.


The first pitch used to be 5.11a. But a number of years ago, part of the "lip" of the thin crack broke off making the face moves down and right much harder. very few people have done the 3rd pitch. Dec 24, 2005
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Several years after the 1974 FFA, a gentleman named Charlie Fowler on-sight soloed this route. Imagine that... Mar 13, 2006
The crux move on the first pitch is pretty fecking hard. I've climbed other 11d and 12a routes in the park and this seemed stout. I think a longer wingspan would make the move significantly easier (seems to me like another 3 inches would have made a world of difference).

The bottom third of the first pitch is pretty rotten, even by Josh standards, compromising the five-star rating in my book. Still, well worth the hike, if only to get away from the crowds. Big props to Charlie (RIP) for on-sight soloing this thing.

Things start to clean up right at the crux. The above beta for a #00 TCU or equivalent is right on (I think a #4 BD Stopper fit just below that). Nov 14, 2007
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
Typical stonemasters route!! Feb 18, 2008
Ben H  
P1 anchors are questionable quarter inch with some good slingage. Stellar first pitch. Brass nuts are good pro, but a 00 for p1 crux would be good. Jan 25, 2012
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
The first pitch was never 5.11a. I climbed it after the block broke off and it was only a letter grade harder. the big advantage now is that you can protect the lower bit with TCUs et al. BITD it was sketchy wires. Don't rip! Sep 21, 2013
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
When I did the route , in April 1979 (checking the record book)with, it says Eric, Dean and Roy, who I take to be EE, Bullwinkle and Roy McClenahan (and not Roy Naasz)we called it 10D. So I believe that Randy's rating of 11a isn't that far off. I remember thinking, when I heard "The" hold was gone, "Man, it must be quite a bit harder."

So John's comment makes sense. "The first pitch was never 11a." Sep 27, 2013
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
I wonder when Charle F. soloed it? Sep 27, 2013