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Hyperion
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | D. O'Kelley & D. Davis ,1970: FFA - J. Long, K. Worrall, T. Sorenson, & R. Accomazzo, 1974 |
Page Views: | 4,400 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on Dec 18, 2005 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Begin at the left end of the south face and climb a low angle crack (some loose rock) that eventually becomes steeper and arches right underneath a large roof. The crux (11d), protected by a #00 TCU, black alien, or small stopper, entails committing moves to the portion of the crack where the roof begins. From here, underclings and hand / fist jams for 80 ft. lead to the anchors (sustained 5.10).
Pitch #2 (5.10) is a short traverse and consists of climbing that is comparable to the latter part of the first pitch.
Pitch #3 (11d) is initially very bouldery and deceptively difficult from the onset. Very small cams / stoppers and two fixed copperheads (solid) protect the hardest moves.
Classic route in a secluded setting.
- A two bolt direct start is possible about 20' right of the normal start and joins the route after the crux making this an easier option (5.11a).
Pitch #2 (5.10) is a short traverse and consists of climbing that is comparable to the latter part of the first pitch.
Pitch #3 (11d) is initially very bouldery and deceptively difficult from the onset. Very small cams / stoppers and two fixed copperheads (solid) protect the hardest moves.
Classic route in a secluded setting.
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