PRINT: Rock Climb Hyperion, Joshua Tree National Park

Hyperion

5.11d, Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 3.9 from 19 votes
FA: FA: D. O'Kelley & D. Davis 1970: FFA: John Long, Kevin Worrall, Tobin Sorenson & Rick Accomazzo, 1974
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > Grey Giant Area > Grey Giant

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Begin at the left end of the south face and climb a low angle crack (some loose rock) that eventually becomes steeper and arches right underneath a large roof. The crux (11d), protected by a #00 TCU, black alien, or small stopper, entails committing moves to the portion of the crack where the roof begins. From here, underclings and hand / fist jams for 80 ft. lead to the anchors (sustained 5.10).

A two bolt direct start is possible about 20' right of the normal start and joins the route after the crux making this an easier option (5.11a, FA; Curt Shannon).

Pitch #2 (5.10) is a short traverse and consists of climbing that is comparable to the latter part of the first pitch.

Pitch #3 (11d) is initially very bouldery and deceptively difficult from the onset. Very small cams / stoppers and two fixed copperheads (solid) protect the hardest moves.

Classic route in a secluded setting.

Protection

Very small cams to 3.5", doubles for 1/4" to 2", small to medium stoppers. Two bolt (1/4") anchor at top of pitch #1. Small to medium cams for anchor at end of pitch #2. Two bolt (1/4" buttonheads) anchor at end of pitch #3. Two rappels to the ground.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hyperion. Photo by Blitzo.

another grey giant photo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Randy
Lassitude 33

The first pitch used to be 5.11a. But a number of years ago, part of the "lip" of the thin crack broke off making the face moves down and right much harder. very few people have done the 3rd pitch. Dec 24, 2005

Adam Stackhouse

5.11d

Several years after the 1974 FFA, a gentleman named Charlie Fowler on-sight soloed this route. Imagine that... Mar 13, 2006

Brian Treanor

The bottom third of the first pitch is pretty rotten, even by Josh standards, compromising the five-star rating in my book. Still, well worth the hike, if only to get away from the crowds. Big props to Charlie (RIP) for on-sight soloing this thing. Things start to clean up right at the crux. The above beta for a #00 TCU or equivalent is right on (I think a #4 BD Stopper fit just below that). Nov 14, 2007

Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming

5.11d

Typical stonemasters route!! Feb 18, 2008

Ben H

P1 anchors are questionable quarter inch with some good slingage. Stellar first pitch. Brass nuts are good pro, but a 00 for p1 crux would be good. Jan 25, 2012

John Long
Venice

The first pitch was never 5.11a. I climbed it after the block broke off and it was only a letter grade harder. the big advantage now is that you can protect the lower bit with TCUs et al. BITD it was sketchy wires. Don't rip! Sep 21, 2013

D. Evans
Joshua Tree, CA

When I did the route in April, 1979 we called it 5.10d. So, I believe that Randy's rating of 11a isn't that far off. I remember thinking, when I heard "The" hold was gone, "Man, it must be quite a bit harder."

So John's comment makes sense. "The first pitch was never 11a." Sep 27, 2013

John Long
Venice

The money part of this route is, and always was, pumping out the 11a crack on the first pitch. The 3rd pitch is much harder but the rep comes from jamming out the arch. Jan 10, 2024