5 Crying Cowboys
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.06395, -116.15202 |
| FA: | Randy Leavitt, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 515 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Kinh Mui Ten on Mar 5, 2023 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
An easy approach pitch/scramble is required to access the base of the climb. It's an obvious left-slanting finger crack. Randy Leavitt rated it 12b.
Location
The route sits at the far eastern end of the Grey Giant's north face. It is only a few hundred yards from the wash that separates The Fortress, and The Flying Fortress. The route gets no direct sunlight in the spring. The approach is approximately four miles from the Boy Scout/Willow Hole Trailhead.
GPS coordinates for the start: 34.0646084, -116.1514519.



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