Illusion
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 34.06395, -116.15202 |
| FA: | Dennis Bird, Chris Wegener (1971) |
| Page Views: | 169 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | the rock bobster on Feb 23, 2024 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
After starting on a flake, jam up a crack and get into the chimney. Towards the top, choose either a nice chimney on the right or a gritty handcrack on the left to surmount the final pillar. Easy scramble off climber's left
The approach for this climb is slightly annoying due to vegetation. First option: scramble up talus and traverse right while hugging the base, then up a small water groove before climbing a small block with a paddle cacti to the base. Second less-ideal option: traverse right below the vegetation before heading up to Hyperion, then battle the Cat Claw bush for 5ft to the crack. I'd recommend not leaving packs near the base.



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