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Routes in Suicide Horn Rock

Bighorn Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compact Physical T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Gingery, Lechlinski and Bachar 1982
Page Views: 4,069 total, 21/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This follows a steep undulating hand crack into a long low-angle dihedral.

Protection

to 2"

Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
Physical crux is the first few moves in an overhanging crack. This section was capped by a thank-god jug which unfortunately broke off when we were on the route. The mental crux is the small crack above which becomes increasingly feature-less and run-out. Brassies are necessary for mental pro, if nothing else.

Cool route aesthetically, but probably not worth 9 miles of hiking. Nov 28, 2016
Tradiban
  5.10c PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10c PG13
Awkward and hard start leads into perfect dihedral climbing with a healthy run-out. I put in the largest DMM brass-offset and took it 30 feet or so to safety with a few useless micro-nuts in-between. I thought the rock quality was pretty good, crumbly down low but I stuck to climbing in the crack into the dihedral directly.
Long but easy hike, easier than Queen Mountain.
Kudos to Simon for the tag-team ascent! Nov 9, 2013
Richard Shore
  5.10c PG13
Richard Shore  
  5.10c PG13
Contrary to the guide, we found a quick and (relatively) easy descent to climbers left, passing beneath the Compact Physical .11c route. Well worth the "long" approach. Nov 26, 2012
fubar
Babylon
  5.10+ PG13
fubar   Babylon
  5.10+ PG13
Felt hard for the grade, and would probably feel less scary if it got more traffic. Long runouts above black alien and purple c3 sized pro. Save time and energy for the descent, too. Randy--one and a half hours? You must have the approach dialed! It was at least 2 for us. Dec 5, 2011
joed  
Placed both a black and blue alien on the upper dihedral. Apr 29, 2010
tony grice  
 
Great sunny route. Bring thin nuts and a little sac for the upper runout, grade backs off during the run.
Must do! Jan 5, 2007
Randy
  5.10b/c
Randy  
  5.10b/c
Great climb, but face on right is a bit loose. Needs (and deserves) more ascents. If this were anywhere near a road, it would have climbers lining up to do it. Perhaps the 1.5 hour approach might disuade some, but there is other good climbing in the area. Apr 7, 2003