Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Don and Karen Wilson, March 1986
Page Views: 6,681 total · 36/month
Shared By: Carol on Jan 17, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route starts up the gully several feet right of Ninny's Revenge. The crack runs to the right of another route (Pops Goes Hawaiian) with a single-bolt on the left face of the gully. The Chief is a fun route with good placements for pro and comfy stances for feet.

It is possible to rap from the top of Tender Flakes of Wrath (127 in Vogel's guide) or the route that runs up the center face, about straight up from the pine tree next to the northwest face.


Hexes or large cams for natural anchor would be handy.
Olympia, WA
Drederek   Olympia, WA
A good lead for a beginning leader. My wife led it in 03 and I was not very scared at all! Solid at 5.5. Apr 22, 2004
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
The fun climbing and good rock make this a recommended route for the novice leader. Two stars out of five. Nov 15, 2004
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
great route for the grade. Good begining leader route and fun solo for we unleashed sorts. Took a friend out for his second trad lead and he cruised it. Protects well with almost all types of gear. Good rock, good area, away from crowds, near other good climbs, recommended. Pro for anchos so don't sew it up with your goods needed to bring up your second. Dec 8, 2004
Gary Schenk  
Yes, a real fun lead. Mar 3, 2008
Some one has added 2 belay bolts at the top of this route, despite the presence of ample natural protection opportunities. Why? Dec 17, 2010
This has become an increasing problem.

Convenience anchors have now sprouted on Woman's Work is Never Done. and even relatively obscure routes like Dreams of Redrocks.

It particularly makes no sense at all on this one. Dec 17, 2010
Ester Williams
San Diego, CA
Ester Williams   San Diego, CA
The park service actually prefers rap stations versus a walk off because of less impact. Dec 27, 2010
There are two options to top-out: to the right bypassing the "summit" block (easy) and going slightly left on the top of the "summit" block following the crack (one 5.7 move). #3 + #2 C4 for the natural gear anchor. Sep 26, 2011
Great climb for beginners, or for a nice cruise. There are no bolts on top of the route. Building an anchor in the crack took a #2, #3, and #4 Camalot. The climb protects well with anything. Nov 8, 2011
david doucette  
best 5.5 in the park, not counting right on of course. Dec 14, 2012
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Easiest J Tree climb for the grade I've been on. Found some lower grade climbs here harder. Excellent rock! Jan 3, 2014
Hermosa Beach, CA
matt-jensen   Hermosa Beach, CA
The convenience bolt/anchors have been chopped, I agree with the multipple statements about it being a great lead for beginners. You can stitch it up with ample feet and jugs/crack for security. Lots of great movement, not boring for a short climb. Bring a couple 3&4 camalots for the flaring pro at the top. Jan 13, 2014
Kirsten Martin
Lausanne, Switzerland
Kirsten Martin   Lausanne, Switzerland
Beautiful and aesthetic climb! Great movement, good placements, and one of the more "secure" 5.5's you'll find in J-tree. Solid for the grade by other places standards, easy for a J-tree 5.5.
I had tons of fun on this route! Jan 20, 2014
Phil Esra
Phil Esra  
Crux is near the very top--I'd call it 5.6, maybe easier if you're tall. Protects well. Gear anchor. Pretty fun for the grade. Mar 16, 2015
Michelle Kemmer
Calabasas, CA
Michelle Kemmer   Calabasas, CA
Great lead for a beginner! This was my second lead after a long hiatus from climbing and, while I did get nervous on one move, it was a pretty chill climb with jugs and great stances. This climb eats gear so I took advantage of the great stances and sewed it up because I had plenty of gear with me so why the heck not.

I used a #2, #3 and #3.5 for the anchor. As others mentioned, the belay bolts are no longer there and are completely unnecessary - I'm glad someone chopped them.

BETA ALERT: There is really only one move on this climb, which is coming out of the "pod" at the top. Don't be a wimp and cheat and go out right before this or you'll miss the best part. Place a good piece of pro, trust your feet, and go for it! Mar 6, 2016
Jeff K
Jeff K  
I really enjoyed this route. We had the whole crag to ourselves the entire day over President's Day weekend! This climb just keeps on giving and giving the higher you get. Definitely don't shortchange yourself at the top and go right, instead stay in the crack. THis protected really well and is a great one for a beginner at this grade. As far the rappel goes, definitely use the bolted anchor over the slab face. We had used the one over Tender Flakes and our rope got snagged pretty badly in the crevice between the face and a rock, plus, the closer anchor gets you back to your stuff much more quickly. Feb 19, 2018