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Suicide Horn Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Suicide Horn Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bighorn Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Compact Physical T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Elevation:	4,114 ft	1,254 m
GPS:	34.06662, -116.14234 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,332 total · 19/month
Shared By:	AJ on Mar 21, 2003 · Updates
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Suicide Horn Rock is east of the Flying Fortress, in the center of a large valley. The Bighorn Dihedral is on the west face. The route ends on the large flat summit. Compact Physical splits the upper summit block, left of where the Bighorn Dihedral ends.

Getting There

While you can approach this formation from either Keys Corner or Rattlesnake Canyon, the approach from Keys Corner (Noerthern Wonderland Parking area) is the easiest and recommended. Simply follow the Wonderland (Boy Scout) Trail north out of the parking area. Where the Boy Scout trail diverges (off slightly to the left), continue right as the trail slowly curves to the right. Eventually, you the trail (an old road bed) will terminate at a wash. Head to the right here and follow the wash as it winds south to east then a bit north before heading east again to reach Willow Hole.

From Willow Hole, continue up over a rise and then east down a small valley/wash. You will see the Super Dome up and off to your left (north). After a few hundred yards, the wash drops down and then head left (north). A large formation lies directly ahead. At this point, you want to head right (east-south-east), following a wash/small canyon that heads to the right and around the large formation and then you are heading roughly eastward again.

After another few hundred yards (before the going gets too rocky and descends), you can head right (south) up over a short rocky rise, and then back down the other side into a more open plain. The Duncecap will be seen ahead and slight to the left. By staying right of the Duncecap and another low formation to its right, you will soon reach the west side of Suicide Horn Rock, where these routes lie.

Plan on about 1.5 to 2 hours for the approach.