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Routes in The Tombstone

Andre the Giant T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Beating Around the Bush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cinnamon Girl T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heaven Can Wait T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
S Cracker, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tombstone, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tim Sorenson, Dan Michael and Alan Bartlett, March 1981
Page Views: 1,251 total, 6/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The obvious S shaped crack on the east side of the Tombstone. If you follow the standard approach along the west side of the Grey Giant, this route will be just out of view on the left flank of the Tombstone.Climb up easy rock to a bolt, then move right into the crack. Set some thin gear for a sequency, traversing crux. Soon the crack angles straight up and eases a bit, but a second crux comes near the top: thin laybacking with tricky gear on perfect rock. A compelling line, with strenuous climbing and technical gear. I didn't lead this, but felt it was _PG_ at the crux. An excellent climb, and a hard lead for the grade.Same rickety old anchor as noted in the other route descriptions.

Protection

standard rack, esp thin TCUs and wires

Photos

This thing looked REALLY excellent. I shall return! Nov 11, 2013
Dave M Snyder
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a/b
Dave M Snyder   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a/b
The first bolt shank is bent at about a 75 deg angle. Make a few moves on good jugs past it to get a good piece of gear in. Excellent climbing! Mar 14, 2010
It was not I. Feb 16, 2005
C Miller   CA  
Randy - the FA party is well documented in Alan's Wonderland guide, so no real mystery there. Thanks to AC's (was that you Tim?) post noting the omission. Feb 13, 2005
Can't say if I followed or traded off on the lead of S Cracker, but do remember it was a joint effort. Feb 13, 2005
Randy  
If you are going to make corrections to FA info and provide some historical fact, do not do it as "anonymous coward." It is pretty hard to verify information from an unknown source. Jan 5, 2005
The first ascent of this was actually led by Tim Sorenson (Tobin's younger brother). Alan Bartlett and Dan Michael followed. Jan 4, 2005
This route is definitely not 10c as listed in Randy's guidebook. AJ's comments concerning the technical and strenuous aspect of the climbing and gear placement are right on. The lone bolt is a rusty 1/4" but the climbing is not too difficult prior to solid gear placements. Three out of five stars for quality. Sep 17, 2003