Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: D. Michael, 1981
Page Views: 1,005 total · 4/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 1, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This 2-pitch route on the north face begins about 50 m below and west of The Tombstone. Scrambling down the boulder-strewn gully is tedious but the climbing is worth the effort. The moderate first pitch ascends a finger / hand crack and ends on a ledge. The 2nd pitch requires technical face, finger / hand crack, and offwidth climbing skills. The offwidth flared crack section (crux) entails sustained movement over two bulges. The flared crack can be protected with #3 - #4.5 cams that aren't too difficult to place. This climb was originally rated in the "10d offwidth doesn't get enough repect" category.

Protection Suggest change

Small to medium stoppers and an assortment of cams to 5" protect this crack climb. A tree at the top has an old sling around it. Long runners can be used to supplement the anchor. Rappel from the tree (2 ropes) to the ground or climb to the top of the Tombstone and use the rappel anchor for the S Cracker / Heaven Can Wait.


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