The Tombstone
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Tony Yaniro, Randy Leavitt and Dan Michael, 1981 |
Page Views: | 1,286 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on Nov 1, 2002 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The first pitch (5.9) of this three pitch climb on the north face of the Tombstone is only about 20' long. Begin in a diagonal finger crack adjacent to a narrow and discontinuous ramp. Climb to a two bolt belay.
The second pitch (5.11+ s) on the slightly overhanging portion of the wall is sustained and difficult from the onset. A fixed copperhead protects moves to a bolt (1/4") and then three more fixed copperheads in a seam lead to a nice finger crack about 10' from the bolt. The fourth copperhead is very loose; don't bother clipping it. The climbing eases to a ledge at the base of a cave-like depression where the second pitch ends.
The third pitch (5.10) climbs out of the depression onto a grainy face / slab protected by two bolts (1/4") to the top of the Tombstone. From the top, downclimb to a bolted anchor (1/4" bolts) on the east end that is used for Heaven Can Wait and The S Cracker.
- One 60 meter rope is sufficient to reach the ground.
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