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Routes in The Tombstone

Andre the Giant T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Beating Around the Bush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cinnamon Girl T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Heaven Can Wait T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
S Cracker, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tombstone, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tony Yaniro, Randy Leavitt and Dan Michael, 1981
Page Views: 535 total · 3/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 1, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The first pitch (5.9) of this three pitch climb on the north face of the Tombstone is only about 20' long. Begin in a diagonal finger crack adjacent to a narrow and discontinuous ramp. Climb to a two bolt belay. The second pitch (5.11+ s) on the slightly overhanging portion of the wall is sustained and difficult from the onset. A fixed copperhead protects moves to a bolt (1/4") and then three more fixed copperheads in a seam lead to a nice finger crack about 10' from the bolt. The fourth copperhead is very loose; don't bother clipping it. The climbing eases to a ledge at the base of a cave-like depression where the second pitch ends. The third pitch (5.10) climbs out of the depression onto a grainy face / slab protected by two bolts (1/4") to the top of the Tombstone. From the top, downclimb to a bolted anchor (1/4" bolts) on the east end that is used for Heaven Can Wait and The S Cracker. One 60 m rope is sufficient to reach the ground.

Protection

Mostly small to medium sized cams and quickdraws provide protection for this climb as well as anchors. A few long runners are also helpful for anchors.

Photos

I feel that its a serious route. I have no idea when the heads were placed but i wouldn't recommend falling on them. On the upside, there are a lot of them and one would probably hold. The leader luckily gets to clip them all and then hang out and get pumped up for whats to come without getting pumped out. I guess all I should say is take this route seriously. Its not a "gimme". No big pieces needed.A # 2 camalot was the biggest. Bolts are bad. overall awesome line which needs a tuneup. Dec 16, 2005