Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 3 pitches
FA: Tony Yaniro, Randy Leavitt and Dan Michael, 1981
Page Views: 1,100 total · 5/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 1, 2002
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest

You & This Route

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The first pitch (5.9) of this three pitch climb on the north face of the Tombstone is only about 20' long. Begin in a diagonal finger crack adjacent to a narrow and discontinuous ramp. Climb to a two bolt belay. The second pitch (5.11+ s) on the slightly overhanging portion of the wall is sustained and difficult from the onset. A fixed copperhead protects moves to a bolt (1/4") and then three more fixed copperheads in a seam lead to a nice finger crack about 10' from the bolt. The fourth copperhead is very loose; don't bother clipping it. The climbing eases to a ledge at the base of a cave-like depression where the second pitch ends. The third pitch (5.10) climbs out of the depression onto a grainy face / slab protected by two bolts (1/4") to the top of the Tombstone. From the top, downclimb to a bolted anchor (1/4" bolts) on the east end that is used for Heaven Can Wait and The S Cracker. One 60 m rope is sufficient to reach the ground.


Mostly small to medium sized cams and quickdraws provide protection for this climb as well as anchors. A few long runners are also helpful for anchors.