Type: Trad, 140 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tony Yaniro, Randy Leavitt and Dan Michael, 1981
Page Views: 734 total · 3/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 1, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch (5.9) of this three pitch climb on the north face of the Tombstone is only about 20' long. Begin in a diagonal finger crack adjacent to a narrow and discontinuous ramp. Climb to a two bolt belay. The second pitch (5.11+ s) on the slightly overhanging portion of the wall is sustained and difficult from the onset. A fixed copperhead protects moves to a bolt (1/4") and then three more fixed copperheads in a seam lead to a nice finger crack about 10' from the bolt. The fourth copperhead is very loose; don't bother clipping it. The climbing eases to a ledge at the base of a cave-like depression where the second pitch ends. The third pitch (5.10) climbs out of the depression onto a grainy face / slab protected by two bolts (1/4") to the top of the Tombstone. From the top, downclimb to a bolted anchor (1/4" bolts) on the east end that is used for Heaven Can Wait and The S Cracker. One 60 m rope is sufficient to reach the ground.

Protection

Mostly small to medium sized cams and quickdraws provide protection for this climb as well as anchors. A few long runners are also helpful for anchors.

Photos