Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Dave Evans, Craig Fry - 1985
Page Views: 211 total · 6/month
Shared By: john durr on Nov 15, 2015
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A great long finger and hand crack line with tons of good movement that reaches the top of the formation. About 100 feet up, move right 5 feet to another crack until it fades out into the standard Josh run-out slab finish. Gritty but super fun.

Two possible starts: the left crack leads to face climbing left to a bolt on fun holds to rejoin the crack (recommended) - the right start follows crack up.

Location

Look for a long splitter on the right side of the Fortress, identify the left start with a bolt about 30 feet up.

Protection

Standard rack - doubles to 3", a 4" cam is useful but not necessary. There is one modern protection bolt on the left start. Gear anchor - wrap a big boulder way back at the top.

Descent: Scramble along the top east to the top of Old Man Down the Road, down climb past an old 1/4" double bolt anchor to a better double bolt anchor about 15 feet lower down. Rappel with two 60 meter ropes.

Photos

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