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Routes in The Fortress

Arms Control T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Catapult T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Man Who Cried (AKA Julius Seizure), The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Natural Selection T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New Hampshire, Naturally T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Man Down the Road, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roark T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sublimation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tower of Godliness - Original Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weekend Warrior T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Dave Evans, Craig Fry - 1985
Page Views: 169 total, 7/month
Shared By: john durr on Nov 15, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A great long finger and hand crack line with tons of good movement that reaches the top of the formation. About 100 feet up, move right 5 feet to another crack until it fades out into the standard Josh run-out slab finish. Gritty but super fun.

Two possible starts: the left crack leads to face climbing left to a bolt on fun holds to rejoin the crack (recommended) - the right start follows crack up.

Location

Look for a long splitter on the right side of the Fortress, identify the left start with a bolt about 30 feet up.

Protection

Standard rack - doubles to 3", a 4" cam is useful but not necessary. There is one modern protection bolt on the left start. Gear anchor - wrap a big boulder way back at the top.

Descent: Scramble along the top east to the top of Old Man Down the Road, down climb past an old 1/4" double bolt anchor to a better double bolt anchor about 15 feet lower down. Rappel with two 60 meter ropes.

Photos

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