Avg: 3.5 from 209 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ed Webster Jeff Achey 1985|
|Page Views:||16,702 total · 74/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Collins on Apr 7, 2002 · Updates|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Approach pitch- climb the loose corner to a good anchor in the notch on the south side of the tower (5.7R, 50ft).
Walk along the base of the NE face of the tower and locate the obvious corner/chimney system on the right side of the face (just look for the chalk).
Pitch 1- jam the hand crack through the bulge to an easy offwidth. Continue up with a mix of face and hand jamming to a ledge in the chimney (5.10-, 130ft, gear needed for belay).
Pitch 2- work up the crack on the left side of the chimney system, pass the rappel anchor, and climb the excellent stem box (crux, RPs) escaping left to a ledge. Continue to the anchor on the next ledge above (5.10, 120ft).
Pitch 3- traverse left, then climb straight up past a bolt to an anchor just below the summit (5.9, 50ft).
Pitch 4- climb up to the overhanging summit block and mantle onto the top (5.8+R).
Enjoy the views on the summit, scream at the people down at Big Bend, then reverse the mantle and downclimb to the anchor at the top of pitch 3. Belay your partner as he/she leads the last pitch and downclimbs back to the anchor. The guide said something about running a TR over the top but I didn't see how that could be done.
DESCENT: Rap 1- 50' rappel to the anchors atop pitch 2. Rap 2- 75' rappel to the anchors in the middle of pitch 2. Rap 3- 150' rappel to the ground. Walk to the anchors atop the approach pitch and rappel to your packs at the base of the SW face. Requires a two rope rappel.