Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ed Webster Jeff Achey 1985
Page Views: 14,317 total · 68/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Apr 7, 2002 with improvements by Devin Bishop and 1 other
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This excellent route is on the E side of the tower. The approach trail leads to the W face, so a short approach pitch must be climbed to get to the other side of the tower.

Approach pitch- climb the loose corner to a good anchor in the notch on the south side of the tower (5.7R, 50ft).

Walk along the base of the NE face of the tower and locate the obvious corner/chimney system on the right side of the face (just look for the chalk).

Pitch 1- jam the hand crack through the bulge to an easy offwidth. Continue up with a mix of face and hand jamming to a ledge in the chimney (5.10-, 130ft, gear needed for belay).

Pitch 2- work up the crack on the left side of the chimney system, pass the rappel anchor, and climb the excellent stem box (crux, RPs) escaping left to a ledge. Continue to the anchor on the next ledge above (5.10, 120ft).

Pitch 3- traverse left, then climb straight up past a bolt to an anchor just below the summit (5.9, 50ft).

Pitch 4- climb up to the overhanging summit block and mantle onto the top (5.8+R).

Enjoy the views on the summit, scream at the people down at Big Bend, then reverse the mantle and downclimb to the anchor at the top of pitch 3. Belay your partner as he/she leads the last pitch and downclimbs back to the anchor. The guide said something about running a TR over the top but I didn't see how that could be done.

DESCENT: Rap 1- 50' rappel to the anchors atop pitch 2. Rap 2- 75' rappel to the anchors in the middle of pitch 2. Rap 3- 150' rappel to the ground. Walk to the anchors atop the approach pitch and rappel to your packs at the base of the SW face. Requires a two rope rappel.

Protection

2 sets of cams to #3 camalot, a #4 friend or camalot, and RPs for the crux.

Photos