Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lighthouse Tower

Iron Maiden T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Lonely Vigil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northeast Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 310 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ed Webster, Jeff Achey - October 1984
Page Views: 3,879 total, 21/month
Shared By: J. Hickok on Sep 9, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

You know where this is! Park just past the "Buffalo Boulder" but before the Big Bend area.

Try and find the trail to preserve the slope, and make your approach much easier.

The route follows the system below the notch left of the summit. The route can be done in 4 or 5 pitches depending on how you handle the easy traverse around the tower.

Pitch 1, 5.8+ : So so climbing to a good belay... and keep ALL your big gear handy.

Pitch 2, 5.10 : This is the crux pitch - a flaring chimney with an slightly overhanging offwidth crack. Seems like two 4 camalots, one 4.5 camalot and a 5 friend would be fine, although it can obviously be done with less by simply bumping gear. Fairly strenous climbing, but certainly can be made easier or harder based on your approach to the climbing. The overhang becomes vertical again and turns to a fist and then hand crack. Move left to a huge ledge and belay.

Pitch 3, maybe hard 5.9 for a couple moves : Climb using a crack and face holds on OK rock. A squeeze leads to a ledge at the notch. Belay at an anchor here or continue with rope drag around the small "sidewalk" to another belay.

Pitch 4, walk around step across: From here a very easy, yet exposed "sidewalk" takes you around to the south side of the tower. There is one bolt to protect the technical move which brings you to yet another set of anchors on the south side. [ See notes below ]

Pitch 5, 5.9 : I won't say much to spoil the good times. There is an intermediate anchor on your way to the summit, but it may not be worth stopping (just clip). Summit and down climb the tower at grade 5.Concentrate.

Rappel two 60m ropes to the south notch from the anchor near the "sidewalk" (not the upper anchor). This gets you to the ground on the east side. Make a short 50 foot rappel to the ground on the west side.

This is a very fun and adventurous route. For the grade, very different from Lonely Vigil, but both are very fun routes.

Protection

We had almost 2 full sets of cams. Leap frogged wide cams on crux wide pitch. Two old style 4 camelot's, and one 4.5 useful. Maybe another wide piece too depending on how comfortable one is with wide cracks or leap frogging and shuffling gear. A couple .75 camalots useful for pitch 1, but once again back-cleaning or leap frogging helped me get by with only one.

Photos

blue ribbon
Indian Creek, UT
  5.9+
blue ribbon   Indian Creek, UT
  5.9+
The second pitch is one of the finest 5.9 pitches I have ever climbed anywhere. I brought plenty of big pieces which was key to make it go at 5.9. There is an old magazine (climbing or rock and ice?) with a photo of Keenan Harvey climbing this on the cover. Does anybody know which issue this is? Oct 7, 2017
The proposal was smart, the method was not :-) Jun 29, 2013
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Kirk, haven't you seen the movie? I'm not sure I would choose this route to launch my journey with a wife! ;-)

Of course, "Lonely Vigil" or "Iron Maiden" don't sound any better. Apr 10, 2013
Somewhere at the bottom of a crag in Morocco is the wedding ring that was clipped to a locker on my harness. Best to leave these on the ground, methinks. Apr 10, 2013
I attempted this climb with a wedding ring hanging from a biner. The idea was to ask my then girlfriend to marry me at the top. I did not make it... she said yes anyway :) I suppose I must go back and do this climb sometime. Mar 24, 2013
This was hard. #5 was important. Two or three #4s. A few smaller pieces. Mar 14, 2013
BrentL
Logan, UT
 
BrentL   Logan, UT
 
Really cool route. P2 is definitely hardest but most interesting. Bring at least 2 or 3 #4 C4s and a #5. More is better so you don't have to screw with walking cams the whole way and you can actually chimney it, which is much easier. Don't rap back down the way you came, ropes will get stuck. Dec 4, 2012
noah gostout
Iqaluit, Nunavut
 
noah gostout   Iqaluit, Nunavut
 
A long time ago I climbed the crux pitch like an OW, it made it very difficult! I also only had a single #5 and #4, so I had to keep walking the pieces. If you climb it this way, be prepared for some shenanigans, grunting, and sweat. With proper gear, one could easily climb it like a chimney and it would go at the grade, I hope. The OW version however is pretty darn tough, and I don't recommend it, the tendency to approach it like this is what earns it the title as an infamous sandbag. Apr 30, 2012
TomKingsbury  
 
possible to rappel w/ a single 70 meter; very good route, easier than ppl make it sound. Dec 5, 2006
Just did Poseiden Adventure the other day. Pitch two gets my vote for the biggest sandbag in the desert. Most beta I read on the route say to stem the pitch, which is easier said than done. Bring knee pads. May 6, 2003
I just did this route last weekend and thought it was great. It is not that desperate and the rock for the most part is fairly good. There are however, some loose spots so be forewarned. The crux second pitch is awesome. It is very weird and you have to be fairly observant to make sense of it. Is it sandbagged? Maybe a little , but not badly. The climbing is just of a strenuous nature. For the crux pitch I would recommend bringing three #4 Camalots. Two work, but you need to do a whole lot of sliding. Treat the crux like a chimney and not so much like an offwidth and you will probably do better. The last pitch, described in the book as a run-out traverse and .9 S and then a down climb, is nothing to worry about. The traverse is literally a sidewalk and the mantle is perfectly described as 5.concentrate. Have fun and wear pants. Mar 24, 2003