Avg: 4 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Ed Webster Jeff Achey|
|Page Views:||4,216 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||Evan Stevens on Sep 10, 2007|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
p1 12-. Do a long pitch that runs the whole gamut. This is a cruxy pitch. Climb a chimney and easy corner until it slams shut, requiring some hard (10+/11-) stemming and face climbing with pro at and below your feet. Get to a stance, pass a possible belay on your left and launch into the 12- business by a new bolt. Pass the bolt and then hand traverse right around the arete to a belay in the corner. Save some .75" to 1.5" pieces for the belay.
p2 11-. Do a hard, leftward hand traverse off the belay to some easier climbing up and left into a big right facing corner. Climb the steep hand and fist crack to a ledge. Save some 3 camalot size pieces for the belay.
p3 12-. Originally was protected by 3 pitons, they have since fallen out and the pitch is now protected by 2 bolts (retro bolted with First Ascensionists permission!). Short but hard, go straight up, then around the summit block to the right and finish via Lonely Vigil.
Remember you have to downclimb the summit! No rap anchors on top! Rap down the backside and then rap the notch towards the road and your packs.