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Routes in Lighthouse Tower

Iron Maiden T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Lonely Vigil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Northeast Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poseidon Adventure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ed Webster Jeff Achey
Page Views: 3,845 total · 30/month
Shared By: Evan Stevens on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: slim, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Andrew Gram

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Edit]

Long considered one of the true desert tower testpieces. A little bit spicy, but well protected for the cruxes.

p1 12-. Do a long pitch that runs the whole gamut. This is a cruxy pitch. Climb a chimney and easy corner until it slams shut, requiring some hard (10+/11-) stemming and face climbing with pro at and below your feet. Get to a stance, pass a possible belay on your left and launch into the 12- business by a new bolt. Pass the bolt and then hand traverse right around the arete to a belay in the corner. Save some .75" to 1.5" pieces for the belay.

p2 11-. Do a hard, leftward hand traverse off the belay to some easier climbing up and left into a big right facing corner. Climb the steep hand and fist crack to a ledge. Save some 3 camalot size pieces for the belay.

p3 12-. Originally was protected by 3 pitons, they have since fallen out and the pitch is now protected by 2 bolts (retro bolted with First Ascensionists permission!). Short but hard, go straight up, then around the summit block to the right and finish via Lonely Vigil.

Remember you have to downclimb the summit! No rap anchors on top! Rap down the backside and then rap the notch towards the road and your packs.

Location [Edit]

On the road side of Lighthouse Tower, right of Posiedon Adventure.

Protection [Edit]

A big desert tower rack. About 2 to 3 sets of cams from micro to fist sizes. Bring at least 3 #3, and 2 #4(new) camalot pieces if you don't like big hand and fist cracks. You need at least one for the belay atop pitch 2.

Photos

Ari Menitove  
 
Awesome route! You can do the tricky 5.10+/11- on P1 with decent (but thin) pro at your knees if you put a #2 stopper (or thereabouts) in a pin scar. Oct 17, 2007
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
 
Getting to the alternate anchor on P1, a blue/yellow offset master cam was perfect for protection. getting past the bolt above and into the horizontal seam was reachy for me, but my parter at 5' 2" was able to pull it off with more stemming. The hand traverse back after the next belay stance above was no gimme. May 24, 2013

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