Elevation: 7,538 ft
GPS: 36.107, -118.479 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 74,651 total · 436/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

This is the awesome triple-tiered tower that crowns the end of the ridge. It is home to some of the longer, harder routes of the Needles such as The Romantic Warrior and Sea of Tranquility. A few short classics like the Howling and the Titantic are also located here. Climbs go up all sides of the Warlock, and your approach may vary depending on where you want to climb.

Decent from the summit involves rapping (two ropes) to the North.

Getting There

Climbs on the upper North, West, and East faces are accessed via the main trail. Climbs that begin on the lower reaches of the Warlock can be accessed from this point as well (via rappels), or by decending down between the Sorcerer and Witch and hiking all the way around, or by approaching from Voodoo Dome (separate trailhead). I'm not sure which way is the most expedient...

15 Total Climbs

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Location: The Warlock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Warlock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 76
Imaginary Voyage
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 31
South Face
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
The Sarcophagus
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 104
The Howling
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Ghostbumps
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
The Spell
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Flying Warlocks
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 4
S Crack
Trad 10 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 3
Dragon's Back
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 7
Planet Waves
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
 8
Sea of Tranquility
Trad 5 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 27
Romantic Warrior
Trad 9 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
The Titanic
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Imaginary Voyage
 76
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
South Face
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 8 pitches
The Sarcophagus
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
The Howling
 104
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Ghostbumps
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
The Spell
 16
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Flying Warlocks
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
S Crack
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 10 pitches
Dragon's Back
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Planet Waves
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Sea of Tranquility
 8
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Romantic Warrior
 27
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 9 pitches
The Titanic
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Warlock »

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