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Routes in The Warlock

Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghostbumps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Imaginary Voyage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Description

This is the awesome triple-tiered tower that crowns the end of the ridge. It is home to some of the longer, harder routes of the Needles such as The Romantic Warrior and Sea of Tranquility. A few short classics like the Howling and the Titantic are also located here. Climbs go up all sides of the Warlock, and your approach may vary depending on where you want to climb.

Decent from the summit involves rapping (two ropes) to the North.

Getting There

Climbs on the upper North, West, and East faces are accessed via the main trail. Climbs that begin on the lower reaches of the Warlock can be accessed from this point as well (via rappels), or by decending down between the Sorcerer and Witch and hiking all the way around, or by approaching from Voodoo Dome (separate trailhead). I'm not sure which way is the most expedient...

14 Total Climbs

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Location: The Warlock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Warlock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 57
Imaginary Voyage
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 22
South Face
Trad 8 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 73
The Howling
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Ghostbumps
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
The Spell
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Flying Warlocks
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 3
Dragon's Back
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 4
Planet Waves
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
 4
Sea of Tranquility
Trad 5 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
Romantic Warrior
Trad 9 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
The Titanic
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Imaginary Voyage
 57
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
South Face
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 8 pitches
The Howling
 73
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Ghostbumps
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Spell
 11
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Flying Warlocks
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Dragon's Back
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Planet Waves
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Sea of Tranquility
 4
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Romantic Warrior
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 9 pitches
The Titanic
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Warlock »

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sqwirll
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
We were able to rappel down the northeast face using a single 60m rope.

Rap 1 - a short rap (80') down the summit block from the eastern most chains. Rap past an anchor to a second anchor on a big ledge (approximately 50' right of the last pitch of Imaginary Voyage). There is a rope connecting the upper and lower anchors for some reason.

Rap 2 - Rap a FULL 100' down and right. Just over the ridge is a set of anchors that you will have to reach down and clip in with a 60m rope. Kind of sketchy. I'm not sure why the anchor wasn't installed 5' up higher.

Rap 3 - Rap a 100' down and angling slightly left to reach the ground. Jul 26, 2011
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
For a rappel-topo and interesting historical notes, visit here Dec 11, 2012

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