Sea of Tranquility
Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
Routes in The Warlock
|Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13|
|South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Yaniro, Mauer, 1982|
|Page Views:||4,256 total, 47/month|
|Shared By:||fubar on Jun 18, 2010|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionAmazing climb on the obvious arete right of Romantic Warrior.
"This climb is most definitely 5.12 with two pitches at that grade. Depending on your skill set either of the upper pitches could feel harder.
P1 5.10a - Climb up per romantic warrior to the belay below the living corner.
P2 5.10/10+ - Climb the first 15 feet of the living corner. At an obvious weakness/rail traverse right across the face past a few spots for gear and one bolt before making it to an obvious 45 degree seam. Follow this feature, which takes thin/very thin gear, to a belay on the arete at a nice ledge.
P3 5.11a - Climb back on to the face past one bolt and run it out until you can place some gear on the right. Continue up the face and arete past two more bolts to another nice belay on a ledge. A very short pitch, could easily be linked with previous or next pitch.
P4 5.12b - From the belay quest up and then left toward the middle of the face. Be careful since the amazing patina buckets become more fragile the higher you go. The climbing gets hard past 4 or 5 closely spaced bolts climaxing with a very hard sequence right below the anchor. Pray the holds stay attached to the wall and climb your way to success!
P5 5.12b - Climb straight up the arete and trend left on the very edge of the overhang. Gravity will try to pull you off as you slab your way up past some small and fragile holds. Once you are off the face technique your way up a thin layback crack with small nuts, RPs and finger sized cams. Falling at the final crux will result in a big ride, so calmly execute and you will be rewarded with a great ledge for the next belay.
P6 5.11 - Climb the blank corner up to the sloping belay at the end of the campusing pitch on Romantic Warrior. It is unclear if is best to go right or left. Have FUN! No bolts on this pitch and not the best gear. Can be linked with the previous pitch.
Many options to continue, described in the original post. While the route is equipped for rappeling it seemed that you need two 70m ropes to rap from the lower most anchor (top of P2) to the ground. Perhaps there is an anchor somewhere straight down I'm not sure. I would suggest rappeling sideways over to Romantic Warrior and rapping that route. This is best done from either to top of P5 or P6 as described above. Rapping to Romantic Warrior from lower on the route is a pain!" -Luke Stefurak