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Routes in The Warlock

Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Imaginary Voyage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sea of Tranquility T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Yaniro, Mauer, 1982
Page Views: 4,256 total, 47/month
Shared By: fubar on Jun 18, 2010
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Amazing climb on the obvious arete right of Romantic Warrior.

"This climb is most definitely 5.12 with two pitches at that grade. Depending on your skill set either of the upper pitches could feel harder.

P1 5.10a - Climb up per romantic warrior to the belay below the living corner.

P2 5.10/10+ - Climb the first 15 feet of the living corner. At an obvious weakness/rail traverse right across the face past a few spots for gear and one bolt before making it to an obvious 45 degree seam. Follow this feature, which takes thin/very thin gear, to a belay on the arete at a nice ledge.

P3 5.11a - Climb back on to the face past one bolt and run it out until you can place some gear on the right. Continue up the face and arete past two more bolts to another nice belay on a ledge. A very short pitch, could easily be linked with previous or next pitch.


P4 5.12b - From the belay quest up and then left toward the middle of the face. Be careful since the amazing patina buckets become more fragile the higher you go. The climbing gets hard past 4 or 5 closely spaced bolts climaxing with a very hard sequence right below the anchor. Pray the holds stay attached to the wall and climb your way to success!

P5 5.12b - Climb straight up the arete and trend left on the very edge of the overhang. Gravity will try to pull you off as you slab your way up past some small and fragile holds. Once you are off the face technique your way up a thin layback crack with small nuts, RPs and finger sized cams. Falling at the final crux will result in a big ride, so calmly execute and you will be rewarded with a great ledge for the next belay.

P6 5.11 - Climb the blank corner up to the sloping belay at the end of the campusing pitch on Romantic Warrior. It is unclear if is best to go right or left. Have FUN! No bolts on this pitch and not the best gear. Can be linked with the previous pitch.

Many options to continue, described in the original post. While the route is equipped for rappeling it seemed that you need two 70m ropes to rap from the lower most anchor (top of P2) to the ground. Perhaps there is an anchor somewhere straight down I'm not sure. I would suggest rappeling sideways over to Romantic Warrior and rapping that route. This is best done from either to top of P5 or P6 as described above. Rapping to Romantic Warrior from lower on the route is a pain!" -Luke Stefurak

Location

Do the first pitch of RW. Go up another 15 feet and traverse right across the amazing green face with a couple opportunities for pro (seize them). Belay at the arete at a small ledge with poor bolts, or continue up past another bolt to a slightly better belay. Stay on the arete for two more pitches, both hard 5.11 with incredible exposure, to arrive at the big sloping ledge. Three options from here: rap with double ropes, continue up Romantic Warrior, or take The Escape (5.11 A1 X: straight up the bolt ladder to a belay, then 5.11 climbing past one bolt followed by 100 feet of 5.9, gradually easing as you approach the summit of the Warlock).

Protection

Thin to 2 inches, bolts.

Photos

Did it on the original 1/4 inch bolts : ) Back in the day it felt OK. Today I'm sure I would need a change of underwear! Feb 18, 2017
William Leventhal
Calabasas
William Leventhal   Calabasas
The rating is definitely 5.12. The long face pitch up the arete( pitch 4) is 5.11d / 12a and the pitch above, up the short, leaning polished arete is for sure 5.12 something.

I've done this route three times and it always delivers the Needles stoke!

Thanks for replacing the bolts, there were some original Yaniro 1/4" junk bolts on the lower part of the route that did not inspire confidence. Sep 3, 2016
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Michael Reardon free soloed Sea of Tranquility on October 11, 2007. He linked it into The Escape finish, wearing a daisy chain around his waist and carrying three quickdraws and two bail biners, which he used only to aid the bolt ladder. He was filmed and photographed during this incredible feat. Jan 31, 2014
That is awesome about the bolts!! A big high five to whoever did it. I remember looking over longingly at the stunning arete, but surprised at what looked to be cringe-worthy bolts. Nov 5, 2013
fubar
Babylon
 
fubar   Babylon
 
Luke, kudos to you (or whoever replaced the anchors). The first anchors were truly nightmarish: a crappy bolt and a fixed head, I think? You can rap with double 60m ropes. Oct 8, 2013
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.12b/c PG13
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.12b/c PG13
All bolts on this route have been upgraded to to 3/8" stainless. No more wacky scarefest anchors. Oct 7, 2013
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.12b/c PG13
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.12b/c PG13
This climb is most definitely 5.12 with two pitches at that grade. Depending on your skill set either of the upper pitches could feel harder.

P1 5.10a - Climb up per romantic warrior to the belay below the living corner.

P2 5.10/10+ - Climb the first 15 feet of the living corner. At an obvious weakness/rail traverse right across the face past a few spots for gear and one bolt before making it to an obvious 45 degree seam. Follow this feature, which takes thin/very thin gear, to a belay on the arete at a nice ledge.

P3 5.11a - Climb back on to the face past one bolt and run it out until you can place some gear on the right. Continue up the face and arete past two more bolts to another nice belay on a ledge. A very short pitch, could easily be linked with previous or next pitch.


P4 5.12b - From the belay quest up and then left toward the middle of the face. Be careful since the amazing patina buckets become more fragile the higher you go. The climbing gets hard past 4 or 5 closely spaced bolts climaxing with a very hard sequence right below the anchor. Pray the holds stay attached to the wall and climb your way to success!

P5 5.12b - Climb straight up the arete and trend left on the very edge of the overhang. Gravity will try to pull you off as you slab your way up past some small and fragile holds. Once you are off the face technique your way up a thin layback crack with small nuts, RPs and finger sized cams. Falling at the final crux will result in a big ride, so calmly execute and you will be rewarded with a great ledge for the next belay.

P6 5.11 - Climb the blank corner up to the sloping belay at the end of the campusing pitch on Romantic Warrior. It is unclear if is best to go right or left. Have FUN! No bolts on this pitch and not the best gear. Can be linked with the previous pitch.

Many options to continue, described in the original post. While the route is equipped for rappeling it seemed that you need two 70m ropes to rap from the lower most anchor (top of P2) to the ground. Perhaps there is an anchor somewhere straight down I'm not sure. I would suggest rappeling sideways over to Romantic Warrior and rapping that route. This is best done from either to top of P5 or P6 as described above. Rapping to Romantic Warrior from lower on the route is a pain! Oct 7, 2013
Did it in about '86 with Ron Carson. The '5.11' pitches felt harder that 5.11! I led the first long 5.11 pitch and it felt like good English E5. On the next pitch, the short 5.11 pitch, Ron pulled a hold off of which made for a really hard move. I think it's safe to say that both 5.11 pitches were probably 5.12a if not harder. Jun 15, 2012
I doubt that this climb is in the 5.11 range. My friend and I were working on freeing Romantic Warrior and onsighting 5.11 face was pretty trivial. We lowered down to TR part of this route and were completely shut down by a move on one of the "5.11" pitches. It's tough... Dec 7, 2011