Elevation: 8,789 ft
GPS: 37.939, -107.816 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 321,331 total · 2,013/month
Shared By: Matthew Ver Eecke on May 30, 2007 with improvements by Ross Perrot
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

This is probably the most remote part of Colorado. It is a great place to find new climbs, escape the crowds of the crags close to the populus, and try a variety of great climbs.

Per Ross Perrot: the Telluride region encompasses the Box Canyon, Ophir, and down valley (Norwood). The three predominant rock types are Dakota Sandstone, Telluride Conglomerate, and Ophir's Diorite Rhyolite (close to granite). The highest concentrate of routes can be found in Ophir and at the Falls Walls/Pipeline Walls at the end of the Telluride box canyon. Rock climbing is possible year round, and the variety of sunny/shaded crags, trad, sport, ice, mixed, alpine, and bouldering is endless. Although the San Juans are notorious for choss, the rock quality can be superb in many of the more developed areas.

Cliff access, new route development, trail development, hardware replacement, and the immensely popular via ferrata have all been supported thanks to the efforts of the Telluride Mountain Club and dedicated local climbers. A .pdf of the out-of-print guidebook Telluride Rocks III can be found on the Telluride Mountain Club website.  

Bouldering has seen a wave of new development thanks to the efforts of Christian Prellwitz and his guidebook A Guide to Bouldering In The Telluride & West End Areas of Southwest Colorado. Links to a few of his videos can be found in the comments sections of the pages in this section.

Getting There

Take I-70 to Grand Junction. Head south to Ouray, Telluride, Durango, Norwood, & Ridgeway.

328 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Telluride/Norwood area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6-7 7A+
 5
Bert's Butt
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 48
Pirouette
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 50
Ame's Way
Sport 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Chewbacca
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Skylight Arete
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 47
Hot Wee Wee
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
Orange Peel
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 12
Y-Crack
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Fool's Gold
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 10
White Salamander
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
Goldrush
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Watermusic
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Big Bird
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Ophir Broke
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Savelli Express
Trad 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bert's Butt Ilium Boulders > Premier
 5
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Pirouette Ophir > Cracked Canyon
 48
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Ame's Way Pipeline Wall
 50
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 3 pitches
Chewbacca Ophir > Cracked Canyon
 57
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Skylight Arete Pipeline Wall
 57
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Hot Wee Wee Ophir > Ophir Wall > Main Wall
 47
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Orange Peel Ophir > Cracked Canyon
 29
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Y-Crack Ophir > Ophir Wall > Main Wall
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Fool's Gold Falls Walls > Streaked Wall
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
White Salamander Ophir > Ophir Wall > Main Wall
 10
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Goldrush Ophir > Ophir Wall > E Buttress
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Watermusic Falls Walls > Streaked Wall
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Big Bird Bear Creek > Sesame Street
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ophir Broke Ophir > Ophir Wall > Mirror Wall
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Savelli Express Ophir > Ophir Wall > Main Wall
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad 8 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Telluride/Norwood area »

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