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Routes in Main Wall

Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Y-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: Bill Kees
Page Views: 636 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ben Griffin on Jul 10, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is directly left of the Honey Pot Chimney. Feeling Edgy has three bolts on it, and the rest uses gear. The route wanders around the face and the arete. The bottom is probably the most physical section of climbing, and the top is probably the coolest. When getting to the second bolt, head climber's right to a short, splitter, thin hands crack, then traverse left into the bolt. I thought any fall on this route would be a little weird and uncomfortable, but the route does not deserve an R rating.

Location

This is directly left of the Honey Pot Chimney. The extremely low first bolt is a good signal that you have found the right route. This can be used as an alternate approach pitch to the Y-Crack.

Protection

3 bolts, I took a double rack of cams, but we were planning to climb the Y-Crack as a second pitch before we had to bail because of rain and lightning. A 70m rope will get you to the base of the Y-Crack. Feeling Edgy has a bolted anchor.

Photos

Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
  5.9
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
  5.9
This is a fantastic route with interesting movement, lots of rests, and an exposed feel. No moves are harder than 5.9 and protection is abundant. In fact, for a taller climber, it will feel more like 5.8. Aug 1, 2016
chosspector
San Juans, CO
 
chosspector   San Juans, CO
 
FA: Bill Kees. Jun 25, 2013