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Routes in Cracked Canyon

Air Arete TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Algebra T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Attica T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Splat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's Luck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bones T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cello T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chewbacca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chip Off T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Come On Sun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Mind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog Leg T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Money T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Exodus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Step T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Grasp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Free Box T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Froggy Bottoms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Genesis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Icy Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Javelin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lago T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limey Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Margin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Orange Peel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Othello T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pirouette T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reptilicus (The Crock) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roller Skates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Round The Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Salvation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Secrets Of Nature T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Summertime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Superfresh T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Teacher's Pet T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Third Grade T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Thor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tick Fever T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Tobacco Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Where Eagles Dare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Where The WIld Things Are T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bill Kees, Royal Robbins, 1977
Page Views: 5,485 total · 35/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is classic 5.8 - it is a beautiful, left-facing corner a few hundred feet up from the mouth of the canyon on the right hand side directly across from Orange Peel.

Climb the obvious corner via both face and crack. There is an awkward section down low, but many consider the roof up high to be the crux. There are bolts on top that can be used to belay your second up, but the descent is from a tree about 15 feet to the right. You will be rapping over Dog Leg and Come On Sun.

Protection

A single set of cams to 3" and a single set of stoppers.

Per Dylan P: a HUGE block is loose right of the roof near top of route. There is a 0.5 size crack out to the right that makes pulling the roof a lot easier, I plugged a cam and tugged on it, and the entire corner of the pillar flexed. Don't put any gear in there!
EMT
 
EMT  
 
No more bolts at top. They have been pulled. You can still rap from the tree to the right with one 60m rope to get down. Jul 21, 2008
RiggerMortis
Albuquerque New Mexico
 
RiggerMortis   Albuquerque New Mexico
 
Great climb, but a real bitch to retrieve the rope from the anchors on climber's right if you have to rap down and pull gear. If you rope solo this as a lead, plan on seconding on TR to clean gear, then retrieve your rope at the top and take the class 3-4 walkoff just uphill from the topout. Or stand at the bottom tugging and cursing all day:) Mar 6, 2009
There are bolts at the top for an anchor for this route and another set for the route to climber's right or this route. The rap is from a tree, as in the description. Jul 21, 2011
goingUp
over here
  5.8+
goingUp   over here
  5.8+
RiggerMortis, +1. My second was tired and didnt want to climb this. I should have built an anchor, rapped, and reclimbed it to retrieve gear. The bolts and rap anchor are just too far away and put too much tension on the rope to pull it. Jun 4, 2014
Sam A.
San Antonio, TX
Sam A.   San Antonio, TX
Could this easily be climbed with only passive pro, or would cams be needed? Jul 24, 2014
doligo  
IIRC, it takes good nuts in the corner. You may want to bring a couple of big hexes just in case. Jul 24, 2014
eric owen
Estes Park, Colorado
eric owen   Estes Park, Colorado
Anchors are at the top and are obvious from the ground. Felt more like 5.7. Good clean climbing. Sep 2, 2015
Bruce M
  5.8+
Bruce M  
  5.8+
Great route, continuous 5.8 with welcome rest spots beginning about 1/2 way up. IMO, the crux is the lower section which is sustained and somewhat awkward; the roof is straightforward and quite aesthetic! Two solid rappel bolts with rings at top. Sep 25, 2017
Dylan P
Telluride, Co
Dylan P   Telluride, Co
A HUGE block is loose right of the roof near top of route. There is a 0.5 size crack out to the right that makes pulling the roof a lot easier, I plugged a cam and tugged on it, and the entire corner of the pillar flexed. Don't put any gear in there! Fun route. Aug 5, 2018

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