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Routes in Cracked Canyon

Air Arete TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Algebra T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Attica T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Splat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's Luck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bones T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cello T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chewbacca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chip Off T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Come On Sun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Mind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog Leg T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Money T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Exodus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Step T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Grasp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Free Box T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Froggy Bottoms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Genesis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Icy Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Javelin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lago T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limey Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Margin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Orange Peel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Othello T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pirouette T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reptilicus (The Crock) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Roller Skates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Round The Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Salvation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Secrets Of Nature T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Summertime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Superfresh T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Teacher's Pet T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Third Grade T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Thor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tick Fever T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Tobacco Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Where Eagles Dare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Where The WIld Things Are T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 9,824 ft
GPS: 37.861, -107.863 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 19,156 total, 131/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Nov 27, 2005 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Cracked Canyon is the place to go for a high concentration of quality routes. There is a good selection of routes in the 5.6 to 5.11 range. Out of the 80 routes in the canyon, there are classic routes at every grade. Pirouette, 5.7; Chewbacca, 5.8; Summertime, 5.9+; Orange Peel, 5.10; Javelin, 5.11.... Most of the routes are around 80 feet long. Pick up a copy of Telluride Rocks at a local climbing shop for route descriptions and maps.

Getting There

Park 100 yards past the Post Office and find a climbers trail that leads to the talus. Follow the talus up the steep slope towards the obvious canyon to the right of the main wall. Be careful on the loose rock in the canyon, it is probably best to leave Spot at home.

L->R:

Left/West Side

A. Squeeze, 8.
B. Chip Off, 9 PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.
C. Lago, 8, 1p, 100', gear.
D. Othello, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
E. First Step, 10, 1p, 80', gear.
F. Cello, 10+, 1p, 80', gear.
G. Javelin, 11-, 1p, 65', gear.
H. Secrets Of Nature, 13-, 1p, 65', gear.
I. Reptillicus, 10+, 1p, 120', gear.
J. Where Eagles Dare, 11+, 1p, 90', gear.
K. Synchronicity, 11+.
L. Bluegrass, 8.
M. Jester, 12.
N. Fool's Grasp, 9+, 1p, 60', gear.
O. Stinky Feet, 10.
P. The Czech Route.
Q. Left in Stitches, 11.
R. Up On Cotner, 10+.
S. The Thin Edge, 10.
T. Weekend On Mars, 10+.
U. Freebox, 10, 1p, 80', gear.
V. Salvation, 11 PG-13, 1p, 75', gear.
W. Where The Wild Things Are, 9, 1p, 200', gear.
X. Detour, 8.
Y. Limey Peel, 9, 1p, gear.
Z. Icy Fingers, 8, 1p, 80', gear.
AA. Marlboro Man, 11 R.
BB. Tobacco Road, 9 PG-13, 1p, 80', gear.
CC. Cody's Crank, 10.
DD. String of Diamonds, 10.
EE. Nid D'Oiseaux, 9.
FF. Orange Peel, 10, 1p, 80', gear.
GG. Fresh Squeezed, 10.
above FF. Black Magic, 10.
HH. Cenotaph Corner, 10 X.
II. Va Va Voom, 11.
JJ. I'm Not Your Mother, 9.
KK. My Darling Brunette, 10+.
LL. Bad Boys Get Spanked, 10.
MM. Skipping Stones, 10+.
above NN. Arete Variation to Blood On The Cracks, 10.
NN. Blood On The Cracks, 10+.
OO. Fat Cat, 8.
PP. Tick Fever, 11+/12- PG-13, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
QQ. High Tide, 10.
RR. Summertime, 9+, 1p, 150', gear.
SS. Talisman, 11.

Right/East Side

A. It Gets Hard, 10 R. **
B. Jonny Be Good, 10. **
C. Power Lounger, 9. **
D. Susan's Arete, 10. **
E. Superfresh, 11-, 1p, 90', gear. **
F. Bat Splat 10+, PG-13, 1p, 90', gear.
G. Crack of Mind, 8, 1p, 80', gear.
H. Chewbacca, 8+, 1p, 90', gear.
I. Round The Corner, 7+, 1p, 90', gear.
J. Thor, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
K. Come On Sun, 10, 1p, 90', gear.
L. Dog Leg, 7, 1p, 90', gear.
M. Attica, 9, 1p, gear.
N. Bones, 7-8+, , 1p, 70', gear.
O. Roller Skates, 8, 1p, gear.
P. Chimney Sweep, 5.
Q. Froggy Bottoms, 7, 1p, 80', gear.
R. Repo Man, 10.
S. White Wall, 11.
T. White Book, 4.
U. Algebra, 6, 1p, 80', gear.
V. Entrance Exam, 3, 1p, 70', gear.
W. Fox Trot, 3.
X. Pirouette, 7.
Y. Where Are Your Friends, 10+ X.
Z. Air Arete, 10 X, 1p, 70', TR or headpoint.
AA. Sizzler, 11.
BB. Breakfast of Champions, 6.
CC. Tintinabulation, 5 R.
DD. Teacher's Pet, 8 PG-13, 1p, 70', gear or TR.
EE. Third Grade, 8 R, 1p, 70', gear or TR.
FF. Beginner's Luck, 6, 1p, 60', gear.
GG. Exodus, 7, 1p, 70', gear.
HH. Genesis, 4, 1p, 60', gear.
II. Margin, 4, 1p, 80', gear.
JJ. Easy Money, 6, 1p, 80', gear.

Outside and Right of the canyon

A. Boulder Climb, 10+.
B. Natives Are Restless, 11-.
C. Ophir Drum, 10+.
D. Say What?, 11.

Thanks to Dave Chew for help in organizing this area!

  • * = may have fallen off!

41 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cracked Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Margin
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Money
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beginner's Luck
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pirouette
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chewbacca
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lago
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Air Arete
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Peel
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Free Box
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cello
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Javelin
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Tick Fever
Trad, Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Where Eagles Dare
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Margin 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Easy Money 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Beginner's Luck 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Pirouette 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Chewbacca 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lago 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Air Arete 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X TR
Orange Peel 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Free Box 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Cello 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Javelin 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Tick Fever 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad, Sport
Where Eagles Dare 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Cracked Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
CAUTION: Dangerous rockfall from above occurred directly across from Pirouette on 8/3/14 at approx. 1pm, unknown cause. Long winter, wet weather, fatter than usual chipmunks, who knows. Small to engine-size blocks shot off the cliff wall hitting the gully and opposite side for 10 seconds. Thankfully no one was hurt. Either a direct hit or rock shrapnel sliced through 70% of a rope hanging on Algebra.
Aug 4, 2014
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
There have been terrible accidents in cracked canyon involving rockfall. One of which severed a lady's leg above the knee! Be very cautious of people above you (and below) in the canyon and on the rim of the canyon. It would be an absolute nightmare to try to evacuate a person to the road below. Climb safely in this amazing place. May 19, 2014
JoshOrin
Telluride, CO
JoshOrin   Telluride, CO
There has been significant rock-fall relatively recently where It Gets Harder, Johnny Be Good, Power Lounger, and Susan's Arete are/used to be. A 30' column has exfoliated from the wall negating some or all of the above routes. The rock-fall appears to have happened within the past few years as there is still dead brush among the debris. I noticed this yesterday while approaching Superfresh during my first visit to the area. This event is very concerning since it would have proven fatal for anyone in the area while the rock fall occurred. Please be aware of this when in the area as part of the column still stands and could be unstable, especially the freeze/thaw months. Oct 12, 2010
Victor McConnell
Golden, CO
Victor McConnell   Golden, CO
One of Colorado's hidden gems for sure - both the Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon.... Oct 20, 2007

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