Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Doug Berry & Charlie Fowler
Page Views: 324 total · 3/month
Shared By: Bingman on Aug 26, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

In my opinion, this is the best climb in Cracked Canyon. This climb has it all, balance, technique, strength, and great gear.

Follow up a beautiful, blank, right-facing dihedral (with the left side slightly overhanging). This route bounces around through the first 1/2, sometimes all on the face to the right, most of the time right in the dihedral.

After the lower section is completed, break left (or go straight up for more style points) on a weakness in the dihedral. Stand on a great rest ledge (pat yourself on the back) plug some pro, and launch into the upper 1/2 of the route for a spicey finish as the entire dihedral becomes overhanging but the holds are good. This upper section has many nuts and small cam placements.

The climb is twice as long as it looks from the belay ledge, do not be fooled - it's a long pitch.

Location

This climb is up the canyon on the right, past all the other classics except Summertime. Find the large, BLANK dihedral with light gray rock - you will know it when you see it. You have to climb through a short section of vegetation to access the beginning - look for 3 bolts going up the dihedral.

Protection

3 bolts protect the bottom section of this route, and the rest is on gear. There is a small dead tree to sling, but it appears less than solid. If you don't want to sling the tree, bring a #3 or #4(?). The top section has quite thin gear, with many bomber nuts and small cam placements.

Photos

Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
  5.11a
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
  5.11a
Superb, thought-provoking movement with techy moves above bolts, and plentiful gear thereafter. If you're short like me, be sure to limber up for the gymnastic move at the end! Jul 3, 2017