Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Doug Berry & Charlie Fowler |
Page Views: | 1,204 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Bingman on Aug 26, 2008 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
In my opinion, this is the best climb in Cracked Canyon. This climb has it all, balance, technique, strength, and great gear.
Follow up a beautiful, blank, right-facing dihedral (with the left side slightly overhanging). This route bounces around through the first 1/2, sometimes all on the face to the right, most of the time right in the dihedral.
After the lower section is completed, break left (or go straight up for more style points) on a weakness in the dihedral. Stand on a great rest ledge (pat yourself on the back) plug some pro, and launch into the upper 1/2 of the route for a spicey finish as the entire dihedral becomes overhanging but the holds are good. This upper section has many nuts and small cam placements.
The climb is twice as long as it looks from the belay ledge, do not be fooled - it's a long pitch.
Follow up a beautiful, blank, right-facing dihedral (with the left side slightly overhanging). This route bounces around through the first 1/2, sometimes all on the face to the right, most of the time right in the dihedral.
After the lower section is completed, break left (or go straight up for more style points) on a weakness in the dihedral. Stand on a great rest ledge (pat yourself on the back) plug some pro, and launch into the upper 1/2 of the route for a spicey finish as the entire dihedral becomes overhanging but the holds are good. This upper section has many nuts and small cam placements.
The climb is twice as long as it looks from the belay ledge, do not be fooled - it's a long pitch.
Location
This climb is up the canyon on the right, past all the other classics except Summertime. Find the large, BLANK dihedral with light gray rock - you will know it when you see it. You have to climb through a short section of vegetation to access the beginning - look for 3 bolts going up the dihedral.
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