Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Chris Vandiver, Royal Robbins
Page Views: 1,674 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Aug 28, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

It is the next step after Orange Peel. This route is beautiful and bold. Make bouldery moves right off the ground using awkward holds. You can't place good protection until you've made it about 15 feet. Plug in your first piece, then keep swimming straight up into the perfect handcrack above. The climb overhangs consistently by a few degrees throughout. Arrive at the belay ledge above, and clip the chains. Whew!

Location

This is the obvious handcrack on the steep, left side of Cracked Canyon.

Protection

Nuts and cams.

Photos

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RiggerMortis
Albuquerque New Mexico
RiggerMortis   Albuquerque New Mexico
VERY scary start. I never managed to get over the crux near the bottom because the landing would be so ugly if you didn't make it. Pretty heavy commitment. Mar 6, 2009
fubar
Babylon
fubar   Babylon
Great route, Royal! Bouldery start + sustained jamming = pump. May 22, 2011
Kevin Dahlstrom
Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
Kevin Dahlstrom   Boulder, CO
  5.11 PG13
A proud lead. Unprotected V2-ish start followed by steep, sustained 5.10. To me that adds up to 5.11. Jul 28, 2016