Secrets Of Nature
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in Cracked Canyon
|Air Arete TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X|
|Algebra T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Attica T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bat Splat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Beginner's Luck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bones T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cello T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Chewbacca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Chip Off T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Come On Sun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Crack of Mind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dog Leg T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Easy Money T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Exodus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|First Step T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fool's Grasp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Free Box T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Froggy Bottoms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Genesis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Icy Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Javelin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lago T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Limey Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Margin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Orange Peel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Othello T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Pirouette T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Reptilicus (The Crock) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Roller Skates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Round The Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Salvation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Secrets Of Nature T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Summertime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Superfresh T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Teacher's Pet T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Third Grade T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Thor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tick Fever T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Tobacco Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Where Eagles Dare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Where The WIld Things Are T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 65 ft|
|FA:||Charlie Fowler & Doug Berry|
|Page Views:||274 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||Christian Prellwitz on Sep 6, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is an absolutely amazing route and showcases the best of what climbing in Ophir can be.
Start standing in a bush (seriously), and reach high to a large edge. Pull off the ground, and use a series of good edges to gain a pair of widely spaced, opposing sidepull features. Here, the crux section begins. Amazing compression moves lead to a couple of small crimps and a final layback slam dunk move to a large edge. This section climbs like a long V7/7+ boulder problem and is well-protected by three bolts.
At this point, the hardest climbing is done, but a technical and committing second half awaits. Clip the third and final bolt, and then head up the looming headwall above. This section is only protectable by a single tiny cam.
Eventually you'll gain better holds in a left-angling seam that leads straight to a couple of large ledges and the anchor. You can protect the seam with another very small cam and/or some small nuts. After reaching the large ledges, there is one more bolt to clip before the anchor.
Smile and know you've ticked one of the proudest lines in Ophir.
LocationThis route is located immediately right of Javelin. It climbs the obvious, beautiful, and clean vertical face.
ProtectionThree bolts protect the first 25-30 feet. After that, very small cams and nuts protect the rest. There's another bolt just before the anchor. So, in total, you get 4 bolts and about three gear placements. Bring very small cams (like BD 0.3/0.4 and below) and very small nuts (BD #4 and below).
I recommend stick clipping the first bolt and perhaps climbing Javelin/Cello first so you can take a look at the gear placements ahead of time, as they aren't very obvious or straightforward.