Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Charlie Fowler & Doug Berry
Page Views: 377 total · 13/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is an absolutely amazing route and showcases the best of what climbing in Ophir can be.

Start standing in a bush (seriously), and reach high to a large edge. Pull off the ground, and use a series of good edges to gain a pair of widely spaced, opposing sidepull features. Here, the crux section begins. Amazing compression moves lead to a couple of small crimps and a final layback slam dunk move to a large edge. This section climbs like a long V7/7+ boulder problem and is well-protected by three bolts.

At this point, the hardest climbing is done, but a technical and committing second half awaits. Clip the third and final bolt, and then head up the looming headwall above. This section is only protectable by a single tiny cam.

Eventually you'll gain better holds in a left-angling seam that leads straight to a couple of large ledges and the anchor. You can protect the seam with another very small cam and/or some small nuts. After reaching the large ledges, there is one more bolt to clip before the anchor.

Smile and know you've ticked one of the proudest lines in Ophir.

Location

This route is located immediately right of Javelin. It climbs the obvious, beautiful, and clean vertical face.

Protection

Three bolts protect the first 25-30 feet. After that, very small cams and nuts protect the rest. There's another bolt just before the anchor. So, in total, you get 4 bolts and about three gear placements. Bring very small cams (like BD 0.3/0.4 and below) and very small nuts (BD #4 and below).

I recommend stick clipping the first bolt and perhaps climbing Javelin/Cello first so you can take a look at the gear placements ahead of time, as they aren't very obvious or straightforward.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  5.13a
Best route in Cracked Canyon? I think so.

The boulder problem at the bottom is amazingly good. Flowy compression moves on perfect rock. And the top section is thought provoking and engaging.

I originally thought the top section was going to be sketchy, with suspect gear, but (after top rope inspection) I found three good placements. I ended up using BD 0.1 and 0.3 cams and a #4 nut (that was bomber). I'm not saying that I'd want to test the placements, but I feel pretty confident they would all hold a fall.

This is honestly my favorite route that I've done in Telluride so far. Sep 6, 2016