Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kees, Kudo, and Trommer, 1981
Page Views: 119 total · 1/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is fun route located just to the left of Orange Peel about 400 feet up the canyon on the left. For some reason, I thought I was on Orange Peel at the time, and it sure felt easy for 5.10.

Follow a left-leaning crack with good face/crack moves to a crux bulge. Clip a piton and back it up with a small RP, since you last gear is way below you. The route finishes with a runout headwall with good holds but poor gear. You can fish in a #0.3 Camalot, but I did not see any other gear. Without this piece and considering the rusting piton below you, the route may be "VS".

Rap or lower from the 2 bolt anchor.

Protection

1 set of cams to #2 Camalot, 1 set of nuts including RPs, and maybe an extra #0.3 Camalot.

Photos

chosspector
San Juans, CO
 
chosspector   San Juans, CO
 
This route may deserve a PG-13 but doesn't seem dangerous enough for an R rating. Jun 6, 2010