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Routes in Cracked Canyon

Air Arete TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Algebra T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Attica T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Splat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's Luck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bones T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cello T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chewbacca T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chip Off T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Come On Sun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Mind T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dog Leg T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Money T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Exodus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Step T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Grasp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Free Box T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Froggy Bottoms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Genesis T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Icy Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Javelin T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lago T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Limey Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Margin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Orange Peel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Othello T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pirouette T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reptilicus (The Crock) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Roller Skates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Round The Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Salvation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Secrets Of Nature T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Summertime T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Superfresh T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Teacher's Pet T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Third Grade T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Thor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tick Fever T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Tobacco Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Where Eagles Dare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Where The WIld Things Are T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kees, Kudo, and Trommer, 1981
Page Views: 78 total, 1/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is fun route located just to the left of Orange Peel about 400 feet up the canyon on the left. For some reason, I thought I was on Orange Peel at the time, and it sure felt easy for 5.10.

Follow a left-leaning crack with good face/crack moves to a crux bulge. Clip a piton and back it up with a small RP, since you last gear is way below you. The route finishes with a runout headwall with good holds but poor gear. You can fish in a #0.3 Camalot, but I did not see any other gear. Without this piece and considering the rusting piton below you, the route may be "VS".

Rap or lower from the 2 bolt anchor.

Protection

1 set of cams to #2 Camalot, 1 set of nuts including RPs, and maybe an extra #0.3 Camalot.

Photos

chosspector
San Juans, CO
 
chosspector   San Juans, CO
 
This route may deserve a PG-13 but doesn't seem dangerous enough for an R rating. Jun 6, 2010