Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Bill Kees, Jack Kaufman, 1973
Page Views: 4,594 total · 24/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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This is the most popular (along with Chewbacca) climb in Cracked Canyon - and for good reason. Look for an eye-catching hand and finger crack on the left hand side of the canyon a few hundred feet up from the mouth of the canyon. It is just uphill from Tobacco Road and directly across from Chewbacca.

Start up steep jugs and crack with rests in between many of the harder moves. At an obvious point about 50 feet up, the jugs and good feet run out and you are left with only a finger crack (the crux) for about 8 feet. Yellow and orange Metolius pieces work well here. Hang tough through this section, and you are rewarded with hand jams and easier climbing with some rests. A bolted anchor is found about 30 feet above the crux on a ledge. There is a rest out left before the crux that lures many over to it. It is somewhat questionable if this is helpful, because the moves back to the crack are awkward. Avoiding the rest is definitely more stylish!


Double set of cams from yellow Metolius to blue Camalot - stoppers aren't really needed but could be placed in spots.