Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Charlie Fowler, Mona Rizzo
Page Views: 1,721 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Aug 28, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start this exciting climb on the right side of the arete. Clip the first bolt, then wrap around the arete to the left, and clip two more bolts. There, that's the easy part, and all bolt protected. Next, climb up into the twisted dihedral above, with your last protection well below your feet. Finally, thin cracks provide protection and substantial handholds. Keep climbing past ceilings to the anchors.

Location

This is on the left side of Cracked Canyon.

Protection

3 bolts, thin gear.

Photos

Bingman
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10 PG13
Bingman   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10 PG13
There is only one real place for protection on this route (obvious thin crack for #1 and 2 TCUs and nuts), so sew this up and then run it to the chains. If you didn't place gear high in this crack (like me) there is a funky #3 C4 up high.

I gave this a PG-13 as the run-outs between gear get long (and I am a wuss). Aug 26, 2008
The anchor on this route is pretty poor. There are two iffy bolts and one good one on a flat ledge at the top, so you'll need to extend for TR. We left a carabiner on a bolt for we found it impossible to pull the rope through the chains with a thick rope because of small chain links and rope drag over the edge. Probably best to bring a rope thinner than 10.2 and leave the biner. Sweet route though! May 14, 2016