Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,791 total · 23/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

This route is located on the right side of the canyon about 150 feet from the mouth. It climbs an obvious, splitter finger crack in a smooth slab.

This is one of the best 5.7 finger cracks around and a must do for the grade. Follow the splitter crack for about 50 feet until you do a rising traverse up and to the right.

Rap from the bolt anchor above Air Arete, 5.10.

Protection

Gear to #2 Camalot, with extra finger-sized cams.
The climb can be continued up and left through a chimney feature. Then find a tree with slings to rap off. Nov 29, 2005
Nice route but really pretty short. A couple of #0.5 Camalots sew up the crux. Jul 4, 2006
This route is wonderful. You can find it on the right 200' up the canyon. It starts with 25' of fingers with solid stances for gear and ends with stemming in a chimney. It trends left at the top and into a wider crack system. I love this route.... Sep 3, 2009
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
  5.6
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
  5.6
Pretty easy & super fun. Aug 23, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
According to the old guide I have, this route tops out to the left. However on 10/1/2016 there were no anchors up there that I could find. Oct 3, 2016
Andy W
Fort Collins, CO
Andy W   Fort Collins, CO
Finishing left thru the "chimney feature" adds another 15 feet of great crack climbing with a steep hand crack (recommended) or just two feet left of that a wide low angle crack, and lots of stemming available for both. As of 8/2/17, there are no anchors at the top, but 30 feet down canyon (climber's right) was a tree with slings. Finishing right will take you to anchors above Air Arete (also highly recommended TR). Aug 7, 2017
Bruce M  
Climbed this 9/19/17 finishing up left; there actually IS a sling anchor with a ring and 2 carabiners off a tree about 12 ft. left of the natural finish which allows the rope to fall back toward the start, but there's a "notch" that the rope wants to gravitate to when belaying back down which creates some drag. Sep 25, 2017
Jordan Weiler
Durango
  5.6
Jordan Weiler   Durango
  5.6
Climbed this on 5/13/18, one of the funnest 5.7s I've jumped on. Great finger crack, you only have to do a little crack technique to get up the 1st 10-15ft. After that, there's plenty of features on the face, and it gets a bit easier the higher you go. There is 3 bolts at the top, 1 is a Metolius glue-in, the other 2 have SMC hangers, but I believe they are the newer ones as the markings run parallel with the spine, they are both spiners as well. Decided to build a a gear anchor with one piece being the glue-in. May 14, 2018