Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kevin Cooney, Ace Kvale, 1978
Page Views: 146 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jun 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Another worthwhile 5.10 in Cracked Canyon.

Cruise up to where the thin hands crack arches left below a left leaning roof/dihedral. Tricky stem or undercling as you move left here provides the technical crux, with good pro under the roof. Above, intermittent reachy or thin moves between good stances as you continue straight up. A couple of wide pods would allow you to get some big gear in, or else, you'll be looking at placements in horizontals or occasionally pinched cracks every 8' or so- never runout- but not always at your nose. A #5 Camalot in a wide water groove about halfway up could be nice. A wide crack finish at the top is easier than it looks.

This climb is easily set for TR after climbing Chewbacca or Dog Leg, if you have a cordelette or a few slings to extend from the bolted anchor about 6' back from the lip.

Location

This climb is the next crack to the left of Dog Leg; and a bit to the right of Chewbacca on the East side of Cracked Canyon. Two other lines, Round the Corner (5.7) and Thor (5.10, wide at top) are between this route and Chewbacca.

Protection

Cams to 3" + nuts, cams up to 6" potentially useful.
A 4-bolt anchor is at the top. Rappel off slings atop the tree above Dog Leg to descend. A 60m rope will reach on rappel. A 50m rope might also work if you swing hard up-canyon as you rappel.

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