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Areas in The Falls Walls

Family Values 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Main Wall 1 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Shark's Fin Wall 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Streaked Wall 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Umbrella Wall 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Description

These are a great couple of walls set above Telluride to the right of Bridal Veil Falls. All the rock is Telluride Conglomerate and is full of pockets. The rock quality was good for the most part with a bit of loose stuff in some areas. This area is only in the sun until about noon.

Getting There

To get there, drive east out of Telluride and start your odometer when the road turns to dirt. Drive 1.5 miles and park near a large boulder with a cable on the top of it. Make sure not to park right in front of the boulder, because it's private property. Hike to the right side of the boulder, cross the creek, and continue up to the walls ahead. It takes about thirty minutes. When I forded the creek, it came to about mid-thigh and was not too bad.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Falls Walls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Family Values
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Darwin's Rib
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Mad Dog
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Power Grid
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
How's My Driving
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
California Route
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Knob in my Pocket
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Compassionate Conservative
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Gray Matter
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
High Lonesome
Sport 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Eldorado
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Hooking Lessons
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Fool's Gold
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Lobotomy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Family Values Family Values
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 4 pitches
Darwin's Rib Main Wall
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Mad Dog Main Wall
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Power Grid Main Wall
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches
How's My Driving Main Wall
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
California Route Streaked Wall
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Knob in my Pocket Main Wall
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Compassionate Conservative Main Wall
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Gray Matter Streaked Wall
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
High Lonesome Umbrella Wall
 5
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 5 pitches
Eldorado Streaked Wall
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hooking Lessons Streaked Wall
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Fool's Gold Streaked Wall
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lobotomy Main Wall
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Falls Walls »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Just be sure that you don't get off the road too early. There are actually 3 boulders with cables coming off the top of them and it is the farthest one that has the trail at it. turning off early leads to a 2 hour-bushwacking approach from hell! Jul 9, 2011
Johan
San Francisco, CA
Johan   San Francisco, CA
As of June 2013, the trail at the creek has a pretty substantial bridge/dam and does not require fording. There would have to be a sizable surge to knock it out. Don't expect to do any fording. Jun 17, 2013
I was climbing at Falls Wall last weekend (June 2013). It was a windy day, and some rock was blown off of the top of the wall down. I'm sure this is a rare a occurrence, but I would recommend wearing a helmet here and just being mindful of the wind. Jun 25, 2013
Logan Adkins   Avon
Is there any national forest camping near The Falls Wall? Jun 14, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
The simplest answer would be no.

That particular area is a complicated mix of National Forest, Wilderness, and private land. So it's best not to camp in that area.

There are paid camping options in Telluride and other regional USFS pay campgrounds, and then random scattered free camping opportunities that are hard to describe here, especially if you're planning on car camping.

The Town Park Campground is right in the town of Telluride and is pretty sweet. It's like $20 a night. It's a short drive or a couple mile hike to The Falls Walls from there. Jun 15, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
I would like to 2nd the recommendation to not get sucked into hiking too early as there are a few boulders with cables on them. Go all the way to the major switchback which is 1.5 miles from the pavement like the poster said, not 1.3 or 1.4. If you aren't on a nice trail from start to finish, you are off route. Aug 12, 2014
Mychal M
Dolores, CO
Mychal M   Dolores, CO
Significant rockfall directly above Darwin's Rib this weekend. My partner was hit in the leg, and we bailed. I left 6 draws (4 Camp Photon, 2 Wild Country) on route. If anyone happens to snag them, I'd love to get them back. Jun 27, 2016
Greg R
Durango CO
Greg R   Durango CO
Mychal, I have your draws. Jun 29, 2016

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