Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Charlie Fowler and Damon Johnston, 2000
Page Views: 6,264 total · 44/month
Shared By: Dane Casterson on Jun 25, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Cruise 4 pitches up the large buttress. It was not a problem to do this as two long pitches. The pitches go at 5.7 with 4 bolts (~85-90'), 5.1 with 2 bolts (~75'), 5.6 with 5 bolts (~85-90'), and 5.2 with 2 bolts. We rapped back down the way we came. Bring a 60m rope.

Location

Look for the large, obvious buttress and follow the bolts.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

RyanO
sunshine
 
RyanO   sunshine
 
This route is not 400 feet, maybe 200. I linked 1 &2 and 3&4 with a set of doubles, rapped off and had extra rope on both, so it's probably closer to 150 feet. Great route though, interesting climbing at the cruxes and cruiser conglomerate in between in a beautiful location! Aug 29, 2011
T5w
Ia.
T5w   Ia.
Fantastic spot to try your first multi pitch. Scenic and safe route had a ball. A couple of anchors could use a snug and some glue, neither which I carried sorry. Aug 30, 2011
We climbed the first three pitches before bad weather moved in yesterday. My partner was inexperienced, so I led one pitch at a time. The first is about 85-90 feet long. The second about 75. The third about 85-90. The fourth anchor was out of sight, so that next pitch isn't short. Do the math, and the total length is in excess of 300 feet. We did three raps with a single 60m, from the top of pitch three. RyanO's calculation is wrong. Aug 15, 2018
Scrambling up to the start was scary. Crawling across the ledge from the right is dangerous while wearing a pack. Scrambling up to the ledge from below and left of the arete is somewhat loose and covered with dirt. I placed a #8 Stopper endwise for a downward-pull belay anchor, on the ledge below and left. If I had a #2 Camalot, or equivalent, I would have placed it early, to protect reaching the start of the route, where you find a two-bolt anchor, which I clipped before continuing over the overhang. Six bolts protect the rest of the first pitch, which is still runout. A #0.75 Camalot may protect the start of pitch four. Aug 15, 2018