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Routes in Main Wall

Beta Decay S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Billy's Harem S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Compassionate Conservative S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crystal Gail S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darwin's Rib S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Empty Pockets S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart of Gold S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
How's My Driving S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Julie's Cherry S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knob in my Pocket S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lobotomy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mad Dog S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No KLA S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perturbation Theory S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power Grid S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yank My Chain T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Charlie Fowler & James Stevens P2: Conrad Anker & Kevin Thaw
Page Views: 897 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bingman on Aug 10, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A brilliant climb!

P1: Climb confidently up through the first few bolts with excellent movement on good holds, then move out left to the arete (crux) and continue up this spectacular arete to the first set of chains. This pitch is arguably the best on the wall with fun movement and very good rock. (5.11+)

P2: Continue up the face through a roof clipping bolts along the way. (5.10+)

Location

This is the 18th route down the line. Go down the small hill, and this will be the first climb to the left on the orange wall proper. Start just right of an obvious arete, stay to the right, and eventually go out left to the arete up high.

Protection

P1: Bolts to chains. P2: Bolts to chains.

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